28 Days later...a month in Germany Day 19

You know what it’s like.You‘re having a leisurely drink outside a cafe bar and a fascistic rally breaks out in front of you.Happens all the time...well not quite but close enough.

I‘d been strolling through Dresden all day,beer here,bit of food there,more beer.Y‘know the way and went through the old market square where I couldn’t help notice there were seventeen—-yep I counted—-police vehicles dotted about and a small stage in the middle of the square.There were not too many other people around so I figured i‘d missed something on earlier and the coppers were Just ensuring the overtime was paid up to the hour...I was heading for Curry 24 which is around the corner where there seemed to be a fair few elderly people sitting with beer,Currywurst and flags.Quite a few flags...

I‘d spotted political posters dotted about the place all day so things fell into place.Sat down away from the flagists and asked a fella with his young daughter what was going on and he told me the AfD(Alternative für Deutschland) were having a rally in an hour.Well I had to hang around for this...

There was a small group of counter protesters at the back of the square.Maybe a hundred or so,catcalling & booing at various times as appropriate.The main rally had started and I’d say there were about eight or nine hundred there.Very underwhelming considering Dresden is an AfD stronghold ...the police seemed very relaxed about the whole thing,so much so that all the cafe bars were open around the square,

so the only sensible thing to do is grab a beer and pull up a chair...the demographics of the rally seemed to be very old former GDR residents.I don’t know if there’s a link there or not but I’d say probably...I didn’t see any,let’s call them footsoldiers for want of a better word,but sure there were one or two dotted about in the crowd.

Obviously I couldn’t understand anything that was said—-bloody hell I’d wigged out earlier when the automated checkout started the “ Unexpected Englisher in the bagging area“ palaver—I did pick out a few buzz words like „“Ausländer“ and „“raus“ so can infer the theme.It‘s pretty much bog standard stuff in any language.

Despite the flag waving and the attempted psychological stimulation of some dire music choices, apart from the odd cheer & boo( I think I heard „“Merkel“ at that point) the crowd were very subdued.Maybe the speakers lacked a certain gravitas.Maybe they needed someone who could grab them emotionally.Maybe they were waiting for...no I can’t say it.

Chatted to a bloke next to me.Late 20‘s Maybe.Born in Dresden But now lived in Bonn.Said he was ashamed the AfD was so big in Dresden & much of East Germany.Explained to me that many young people moving west owing to the rise of the right among other things. Interesting talk.

So anyway they went for a walk around a local church for some reason.Came back for another speech.Then a woman got up to sing the national anthem( surprised it was the modern version not the other one) rally over,all went home and the police clocked up another few hours overtime...all in all it was as dull as ditch water.

Anyway sparrows.What about them you say?  Well I sort of miss the little buggers in London but over here in Dresden they‘re like little fucking velociraptors.Especially At the Currywurst Kiosk i have been too.No shame at all just an insatiable bloodlust for chips.Can‘t believe they’re not all 20 stone sitting in the park smoking tabs...when I was there yesterday a pigeon tried to muscle in and was quickly seen off by force of numbers.First time i‘ve ever felt sorry for a pigeon...

Don’t have nightmares kids...goodnight.

28 days later...a month in Germany.Day 18

At first glance After getting off the train Dresden looks a confusing mishmash of tram lines & duel carriage ways surrounding a beautiful Hauptbahnhof.A lot of these German mainline stations do have a very similar look but Dresden appears to have a bit more than many...a classic of its genre.

Managed to find the hotel ok.It is pretty close to hbf and also to the Alt Markt area too which appears to have lots of cafe bars...the hotel’s quite modern and it’s fine.You know what it’s like after a few minutes and the receptionist is going through the schtick but you stopped listening a while ago? Well yea that...had to ask him three times which floor I was on cos‘ I wasn’t really paying as much attention as I should have been.His face was a study of contained hatred for me at that moment...

 

Talking of which...my favourite topic it seems is German supermarkets and today my favourite one had no tellers on so had to use an automated checkout.I feel intimidated by them in Britain so imagine how I feel about them in German! Standing there like a bit of a prick a market worker came over to help out.I say help out,more grab the stuff out of my hand,do all the scanning then point and said „“pay!“

They’re a curious breed German store workers.Beligerance and benevolence in the same package...once i‘d payed I thanked her for her help „“Bitteschön meine Liebe „“  she said and got all smiles with me...As I have said before i‘m quite happy to not have to put up with being served by grinning Ken & Barbies.If they’re having a bad day then it’s only reasonable to show it.I don’t want  to be their mate I just want to buy this thing and piss off...the customer isn’t always right and chances are if you’re being a prick in a shop then you’re a prick out of it.Me? I try to be a pleasant fucker all the time...

I did that thing in the hotel beer garden last night.My friends ,and indeed anyone who’s slept in the same room,will know this...I fell asleep.No big deal,I was shattered and we‘ve all done it, but I tend to make industrial strength noises when sleeping and woke up with a jolt to see the other three people in there just staring at me incredulously...See this is why I don’t hostel.Yea it’s a lot cheaper and you can meet some great people but I can’t handle the rows,the recriminations,the tears...  

Think I have sussed out the tram system.Well the part I want anyway.So gonna see a bit more of Dresden...had a look round.Reminds me very much of Prague in some ways especially in the old architecture not just with the big palaces & churches but also down some of the side streets too.Not surprising really as the two cities are relatively close...they both seem to share a fondness for big wooden doors too.They do look nice to be honest...Fountains seems to be a thing aswell.Never seen so many in such a small area.

Dresden doesn’t seem as vibrant as Leipzig was last year.The pace of life seems slower...Mind you it’s monday and nobody‘s at their best on a monday...but y‘know it’s all good.Had a strange chat with a local down by the river.Thought he was gonna tap me up for a smoke but think he just wanted a chat to someone.His English wasn’t good but he was telling me about the Elbe river.I got about a quarter of what he was saying but as I was leaving he said „“okey dokey“ !  Have to admit I burst out laughing...

Oh and there’s no pix n mix in their Woolworths.Very disappointing.

I take it back about it being a bit slow paced.I have now found the main shopping/drinking mall...oh and I have just witnessed an AfD rally.More of which tomorrow.,.

Seeet dreams Volks...

28 days later...a month in Germany day 17

Another beautiful morning in east Germany and i‘m Just about to check out to get the Dresden train.It‘s not a long journey,probably just under two hours.I have deliberately tried to ensure I don‘t have a train journey of over five hours on this trip.

Had a very weird experience involving a barmaid in a pub i‘d never been to before.Outside was pretty full but as is the way inside empty.Walked in and the barmaid looked up from pouring beer to say „“hallo Englisher,long time no see“ at first I thought this is clearly a joke I don’t understand but I asked her and she said she used to work in a bar in Charlottenburg I went to regularly two years ago when I was here.Then she apologised for not remembering my name saying „“but I know it’s a name us German‘s can’t say“ which is true.Many struggle with it,I think it’s the „th“ at the end.No surprise really as I struggle with it at times.But that’s the beer...amazing memory though(not me, the woman)

Got to Berlin HBF and the temporary beer garden’s back! So either I got here a week too early for it or as they say in Back To The Future „“Something something time flux something something Marty“ I think that’s right,not seen it for a while...I‘ll have to bear this in mind for future reference when coming here.Stepping off a train into a fully stocked beer garden after four hours travelling is one of life’s pleasures...

Gonna be tight getting to see any of Wolves opening game today...get into Dresden about half hour before kick off then need to find the hotel to check in by 3pm.Looks close to hbf but you never know.Unless there’s an Irish bar( it’s always Irish bars that show Brit games over here) close by it‘s Twitter scores again...the same result as last Thursday would be cool...

What’s not cool is the weather...it’s probably about 30c and rising.Hope the train has air con.Funnily enough seen more people carrying umbrellas today than when it’s raining...

Just realised I have to change at Leipzig.Only a 20 min wait so time for a smoke.It‘s no bad thing actually as this train is going to Munich and very likely to be heaving.May well be hunting out the bike carriage...a woman is doing the rounds on the platform putting the tears on for everyone.Maybe she’s legit but you become so immune to these things due to the amount of scammers.In a way these scammers have ruined good old fashioned begging for many(of us)

Yay.Looked At google maps(which have been a godsend so far this holiday) and they’ve saying the hotel is 700m from Dresden hbf...I hope that’s metres and not miles otherwise i‘m fucked...so I may be able See the game.It‘s like a modern day fairy tale...anyhoo i‘m doing a „“Corbyn“ my own fault for not reserving at peak time.I’m not the only one.There’s a lot of vestibules full of folk dossing down.Leipzig’s not too far but pity and of those going to Munich.Phew! Caught the Dresden train with about a minute to go.That sounds a lot but anyone who knows me will understand my angst...

Until tomorrow my lovelies...

28 Days later...a month in Germany day 16

Last day in Berlin,off to Dresden tomorrow morning...looking forward to it as i‘ve never been there.But it is well known as a bit of a right wing enclave so probably best if I keep my head down in certain bars around town.We‘ll see...I had similar concerns about Leipzig last year and never came across any unpleasantness.

Not sure what to do today.The Premiership starts in England and I know a few pubs will have all the games on but as Wolves don’t play till tomorrow my interest isn’t as acute today as it normally would be...no doubt I will end up in Belushie‘s at some point...

Came out of Bar 11 last night and walking past Wild at Heart the fella i‘d been talking to the previous night was outside and called me over to give me a German punk vinyl LP...bloody hell he didn’t have to do anything like that.I was a bit taken aback by his generosity...truth is i‘m not a big fan of hardcore German punk but our drunken conversation must have convinced him I was.As luck would have I know someone who laps this stuff up.Now all I have to do is hawk it round Germany for two more weeks then get it back to the UK safely...not sure I will but i‘ll try my best!

Decided to take a trip to Tempelhof  the former military airfield.Been there before and it‘s history is fascinating.There‘s not a lot there except massive space and a couple of runways.It‘s mostly used by joggers,cyclists,picnicking and ,what I saw today,impromptu cricket...I bet the developers would love to get their greedy mits on this prime spot but I think so far All advances have been rebuffed...to See it properly I really need to hire a bike as these little legs can’t do that kind of walking in this stifling heat.I‘m sweating up now just sinking a beer!

I remember reading somewhere that Berlin Wolves meet up for televised games around By Tempelhof so checked it out and it‘s an Irish bar a few stops away on the U-Bahn then a short walk.The bar‘s shut at the moment but it’s good to know for future reference.There‘s sure to be times when i‘m here with Wolves games on the telly...the bar opposite ain’t bad either and it has free WiFi...

I have tried learning German on line and yes,I have learnt a fair bit,but only really how to say certain phrases rather than being able to engage in conversation.Essentially i‘m learning on the hoof and that’s fine.If I know one more thing than I knew yesterday then i‘m happy...I do try to order everything in German even if I have to slip in an English word when stuck.However it’s occurred to me that even though in my head it’s passable in reality I Probably sound like a really bad Herr Flick impressionist from „“Allo Allo“ Well it’s either that or spend four weeks pointing at stuff saying „“Me want“

I suppose it’s all about attitude in the end...if you don’t even attempt the basics you come over as a bit of a twat really.I have heard so many Brits here just basically pointing at stuff doing the „“me want“ thing and it’s fucking embarrassing frankly...also because i‘m a return visitor I always „“stimmt so“ which is a tip to your server.Very big over here and very important too especially if you want decent service next time.

Sorry, got a bit reflective there...sitting next to a bunch of Brits acting up and i‘m cringing.Moved to the Irish bar used by Berlin Wolves.German landlord unusually.Cool fella and a St Pauli fan.Fucked off two blokes looking for some rugby on the telly...seems a good little bar.Think i‘d come again if Wolves were playing or not.

Train to Dresden tomorrow then so goodnight all...

28 Days later...a month in Germany Day 15

Good lord i‘m early this morning...come to Gesundbrunnen to get breakfast from the massive REWE in the shopping centre and it’s not open yet...walking through a deserted shopping mall is a bit too Dawn of the Dead for my liking...

Got home from Kreuzburg late last night after we all got kicked off the bus at Halensee so had to piss about waiting for one going to my stop...where i‘m staying in Charlottenburg is very posh but some have said it’s full of Russian mafia types.Mostly such talk is fanciable at best but last night the road I walk down to the hotel( Herthastrasse) had four goons outside a huge gated house all dressed in regulation goon gear of dark suits and stern expressions.As I was about 15 metres away a huge fuck off black car sped into the drive and the electrical gates slammed shut with two goons following and two left guarding the gate...I walked past without making eye contact and remember thinking „“whatever you do don’t look back“. I did‘nt look back...so maybe the Russian mafia thing has some substance after all.

Shop‘s open.Gonna grab some breakfast and hopefully actually make it to Tiergarten this time...damn you gotta be on your game at these supermarket checkouts.They fling that stuff down like Michael Holding off his long run...I swear if you just held your bag open at the end of the counter they‘d happily throw that shit in.No time for small talk either.No „“oh hello Doris,are those big fat ankles of yours still playing up?“ In the UK a chat to the checkout girl is the only human interaction some people get.Not here,it’s ruthless...

Managed to get in to Tiergarten which as achievements go is not that great as it’s smack in the middle of Berlin between Brandenburg Tor & Postdammer Platz.Not quite climbing Everest though I do have my own Sherpa to carry my water & tabs.First thing isaw was a hawk chowing down on an unfortunate rodent.Took some pics but couldn’t get close enough for anything decent...Anyhoo it’s a lovely spot.Be great to cycle round here...

Funny going back to a place after a year to see the differences,or not.Dropped into a cafe bar I used a lot last year opposite Birkenstrasse U-Bahn.Nice place,always welcoming and still is.The sexy barmaid is still there but sadly didn’t recognise me.That‘s fair enough we‘ve never discussed Lemmy‘s peccadilloes or indeed anyone else’s for that matter...what does seem to have changed however is over the road outside the U-Bahn exit where all sorts of shit was going down 24/7 .There were dealers & pimps swarming all over the place and now it’s empty.Don‘t know if there’s been a purge or if they’re just taking a break for a light lunch...i‘d braced myself going up the stairs where I was always met with a few dubious offers of one kind or another and it was a case of nothing to see here...

Talking of dodgy.I got warned off going to Dresden by a fella last night(too late i‘m booked) said it was full of right wing thugs.It‘s true they did vote nearly 22% for the AFD there but by my reckoning that still leaves nearly 80% who did‘nt so the odds are good.He did add that I should be ok because i‘m white! Best to stick to football as a conversation piece I s‘pose.

Incidentally it’s pronounced „“Dreesden“ we‘ve  been saying it wrong for years.I like to pronounce names properly although I draw the line at the „“fffffff“ in the middle of Barcalona ——Oh a big police van‘s just turned up and parked outside the U-Bahn exit.So that answers the question I posed earlier——anyway some people think you’re a bit of a ponce if you pronounce foreign names properly.Ironically They’re usually the same people who get their knickers in a twist over Americans pronouncing it „“Lie-sester-Square“ so fuck em‘...

Lucky i‘m not paranoid a la Henry Hill in Goodfellas ,cos‘ when I got to Gölitzerbahn there was another police van and eight or nine coppers outside but surprisingly no purveyors of dodgy grass.If I did‘nt know better  i‘d say there’s a concerted effort to clean up dodgy U-Bahn exits around the city...failing that they really are following me!

See you all tomorrow...as Long as the cops don’t get me.

28 Days later...a month in Germany.Day14

Half way through then...feels shorter yet longer too if that makes any sense.I don’t want to be counting the days off though.Just enjoy it for what it is... 

Still in Berlin and still getting hopelessly lost.Sometimes I can find my way around but other times,like today,I end up god knows where...I was heading for The Tiergarten which i have Never been to even though this is my fourth time in Berlin.But I was still a bit sleepy from last night( got home on the bus fine though!) saw „“Tier“ on the U-Bahn sign and Bob‘s your uncle...or rather he is‘nt.No bugger told me there‘s a Tier Park too...what‘s the hell‘s wrong with you people? A bit of help here please.

Turn‘s our Tier Park‘s quite a way out but opposite the U-Bahn is a tram stop and having seen one to Köpenick,which I know is in the south east where Union Berlin play,naturally my thinking was the other platform will take me back to the city.It did‘nt.I ended up way out of my ticket zone in the Far East of Berlin.Luckily no inspectors today! I did realise pretty quickly but thought sod it, let’s see where it takes me...

I don’t even know where I was but it was clearly the former GDR.Lots of brutalist tower blocks which looked very well kept.A few shops and not much else.I don’t know how much money has been spent on these areas but it doesn’t seem like much.The place looked ok in a non threatening sort of way but there was just nothing there except a tram stop out...of course when I say I was lost that’s a falsehood.Being lost is getting dumped in the Amazon rain forest with no food not somewhere with a tram stop.

Don‘t expect i‘ll be able to watch any of the Wolves game tonight so looks like keeping up via twitter.That‘s always fun as many of you are well aware...I could try Belushie‘s but it‘ll be full of young folk doing young folk things...I doubt Wolves playing in Armenia is high on their agenda.

Cycling then...After seeing that woman cycling whilst blowing her nose i thought I’d pop something down.As everyone probably knows cycling‘s massive here.The infrastructure‘s in place already and there appears to be a mutual respect between cyclist,drivers and predestrians .We don’t have that in the UK yet and doubt we ever will.Everyone seems to be at war but it’s not like that here...most of the cyclists I see are dressed in their normal gear.Not a lot of Lycra on show.When I ride into work most of the other cyclists I see are clad in all the Tour de France gear and many of them are middle aged men.It‘s not a good look if you’re over forty five with associated stomach spread...don’t see many wearing helmets either.I suppose they feel safe enough not to.

Just popped into Belushie‘s and Quelle surprise they’re not showing the game...in fact they seemed to have trouble getting their heads around what the hell i was talking about(no the staff are‘nt German) „“is it a Premiership game?“   I think at that moment I knew the game was up...did also feel weird ordering in English as opposed to my go to Deutschlish...

Well I eventually got a Currywurst as you may have seen from the pic posted elsewhere.It‘s good but one‘s enough especially at €7-50 for what is essentially one sausage & chips! Cashing in on the cliche I s‘pose.Far be it from me to get arsey about tourists being ripped off as I live in London.King of the tourist rip off...

Must admit yesterday was getting all a bit bleugh.Not much happening at all but then got to Madonna‘s ,had a few whilst keeping up with Wolves great 4-0 win in Armenia then decided to pop into Wild at Heart next door...it’s always nice to be remembered,especially by those you admire so I was chuffed when the landlady remembered me and we had a great chat.Also had a great chat with a fella named Chris who told me some good tales of old Berlin...

 

Laters.

28 Days later...a month in Germany.Day 13

At last had my ticket inspected.They‘ve been very slow off the mark this year the lazy sods...Was impressed by their tactics though.Got On looking like a normal couple sat opposite me and waited till the doors shut and went to business.Got a business man behind me but as I was getting off next stop they were still taking details...crafty.

Having a nice baguette on a bench and got intimidated to move...by two crows.I think they spotted some poppy seeds fall off and moved in circling me.Look i‘ve seen Hitchcock‘s The Birds and know how these fuckers work.If you don’t give up your poppy seeds they have your eyes...gots to have them narcotics.

It‘s absolutely hammering it down but found a local bar where the locals took the piss cos‘ I asked for Weißbier.Landlady pointed at the draught Pump and said that’s all we have ,eventually ,after stopping laughing...it’s fun being a tourist sometimes.God knows how she’ll react when I ask where the bogs are!

Did see the epitome of cool earlier...a young woman riding her bike no handed as she blew her nose...not something i‘ve seen before...anyway the landlady is all friendly smiles now especially as I bought another drink.

Anyway being a Brit i‘m not really comfortable around naked strangers especially in a communal shower unit of a hotel.Normally I get up pretty early to avoid such messiness but this morning had to endure a rather stout German fella trying to engage in conversation while 

Drying himself furiously and his auld fella swung about like a pendulum in a storm...I know it‘s natural etc but man I couldn’t get out of there quick enough and putting on dry underwear onto a soaking wet body is never easy especially when all you‘re thinking is „“keep eye contact,keep eye contact...“

The landlady and I getting on like a house on fire now even though neither of us speak each other’s language.All smiles & thumb‘s up...truth is neither of us has a scooby what the other‘s on about.The Sound basis for any relationship.Mind you she has made me pay upfront for my drinks...

Just heard Britain is stopping the use of Interrail.Eurostar will still use it to get to Europe but are we really so blind to the benefits of others coming to the country and travelling around on relatively cheap train tickets? We really have become a spiteful little inward looking shit heap of an island since Brexit became a thing.If anyone brags about our so called tolerance as a nation I think I may take a dump in their shoes...Were we always a nation of small minded gobshites hiding behind a cloak of supposed tolerance or is this a modern phenomenon?

One thing that’s become apparent since a year ago is the amount of German music i‘m hearing in the bars.Granted I tend to prefer „“local“ type places rather than touristy spots,y‘know because of hipster sensibilities and,let‘s be honest here,expense...i‘m sure those places still play Brit & American pop usually, which is fine as those countries still arguably make the best pop,but I have heard loads more local stuff on this trip.Mostly rap & modern R&B...not my choice of easy listening but still.I also think there’s always a place for Nene‘s 99 Luft Balloons and her sexy leather trousers though...Not heard any Can yet(one for the younger readers there)...now of course all you have in your heads is „“ You and I in a little toy shop...“ Sorry.

Oh this could be dangerous.I‘m staying the opposite side of the city to the three bars I mentioned in yesterday’s blog.A bit like drinking in Central Hackney and living in Brenford.Just discovered there’s a direct bus to my place to here.Which, if you’re interested, is Wienerstrasse Kreuzburg.Lots of chances to crash out on the bus and end up having a diplomatic incident a thousand miles from home...at least it‘ll save me fobbing off the purveyors of dodgy grass at Görlitz Bahnhof..,

Goodnight my lovelies...