60 Days in Europe…#44 Hamburg…

Turns out the fella in the laundry using a lot of the washers was the kitman for the local Basketball team Hamburg Towers and he used a separate washer & dryer for every team member‘s kit.I had forgotten that Germany are actually Basketball world champions…

Having a coffee outside Feldstrasse U-Bahn where I’m meeting Rikky later.There are a few people up on the bunker so it looks hopeful we can go up which would be cool.Ever since knowing of these towers/ bunker’s existence I’ve hoped to have a gander at the inside & up top…it looks like they‘ve built flats into it and maybe a roof garden.We will see…there’s also a flea market going on in the street next to my hotel so that’s probably on the agenda too…

A very good day with Wolves/Cov/Hamburg Rikky.Lovely to see her again.We didn’t climb the Feldstrasse bunker in the end as the queue was too big,apparently it only reopened last week and the whole world and his Frau want to visit.I might be a Brit but I’m not queuing to give myself a cardiac arrest… 

So lunch and a drink followed by a stroll & drink at a street market happening next to the hotel,all very worthy to help the local community who came out in force I’m happy to say…might pop back there later although a dirty great big storm cloud that’s just appeared might put a break on that.

Tomorrow is today again now.Didn’t bother going back to the street party despite it being in full swing when i got back.The huge storm didn’t seem to deter anyone.I was just knackered to be honest.Again it was a case of the body reminding the head it’s not 25 anymore…

Need to pace myself today as of course it’s Euro finals later on (9pm local time) was gonna pop down the Fisch Markt but been there before and it is basically like any other market.ie shouty blokes trying to flog you stuff only this time in German…

My last day in Hamburg.No doubt I will be back and most probably in the same area too.It is pretty cool,probably as cool as anywhere in Berlin which obviously prides itself on that tag…

Sorry but today’s blog is pretty crappy…found it quite difficult to come up with anything interesting to write about.At least you won’t have to take long to read it…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#43 Hamburg…

Currently sitting in the courtyard of what might well be my favourite building Hamburg’s Chilehaus.A huge brick built edifice dating from the mid 1920’s and thus far superior to anything the Nazis erected (stick that in your pipe hole Albert Speer) If you’re ever in Hamburg have a butchers…apparently it’s part of the “Brick Expressionism” movement which is a thing I didn’t know existed until about a minute ago.Well my expert opinion is that there’s certainly a lot of bricks and it’s very expressive…

Located the local laundry so that’s my first job in the morning then off to meet the belle of Molineux Alley Rikky somewhere.No plans yet but sure we’ll sort something out later on…

Went for a coffee this morning by where i’m staying and blow me sideways it’s card payment only! Anyone that knows Germany is well aware how cash dependent the country is so this was a big surprise.Luckily I now carry my card with me as a matter of course as I’ve been caught out a few times back in the UK but it still a shock especially in somewhere like St Pauli too…

When I said earlier the Chilehaus is possibly my favourite building that may be true until I meet up with Rikky and we’re going to see if we can get to the top of the Feldstrasse Bunker next to St Pauli Stadion and if that’s the case there’s no doubt it will succeed the Chilehaus and I will owe Albert Speer an apology ( doubt if he designed it,probably another nazi) However it would be pretty cool.It’s an awesome looking building from the outside as it is…

As a hook in to yesterday‘s blog there‘s also something they do in Germany,well in the big cities anyway,is shops that we would class as off licences often have benches & tables outside and you can buy your bevvy,open it & drink it like You’re outside a bar.Again very civilised and probably a Turkish thing.Think Hackney may have one or two similar shops but there’s also a sizeable Turkish community there too…

Happy to say my favourite bar in Hamburg is still open,the St Pauli Eck.A scummy dive bar just down from Reeperbahn.It’s dirty,smoky,dark,very basic and I love it…full of real people who once they know you’re not under cover plod accept you with open arms…great to also see the same landlady too.

So tomorrow is now today and I’m sitting in the laundromat.Luckily it’s a huge one because just before i came in a local sports coach started washing sports gear and took about ten machines.In most other places I have been to that would have been the lot…

Strange how something is sometimes close by but you don’t notice it until to take a different path… I am actually talking literally here and not going into any deep mind bending metaphorical sphere…the Feldstrasse Bunker which myself & Rikky are hoping to visit later turns out to be just up the road from the hotel but I had never noticed as i only walked a certain way and it was obscured by trees in the park.It’s a hard building to miss too! 

Also strange how(or why) I have kept hold of one sock despite knowing I lost it’s partner in Innsbruck many weeks ago.Am I hoping by some miracle it will find a way to reunite? Like some heroic Disney dog?  

On that note…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#42 Hamburg…

So after all of yesterday’s shenanigans I got myself sorted in the hotel then went out to find somewhere to watch the football.Loads of bars on the way but few,if any,appeared to have a TV.The bars in this area are more small rooms with benches outside…eventually sat down at one that was pretty empty cos’ I just needed a bevvy.By this time it was about 8-20 local time ( kick off 9-00) and I’d resigned myself to missing the match but as the owner collected glasses I asked if he knew anywhere the game would be on.He gave me a “ huh?” Look as I had actually been sitting under the damn telly this whole time…in my defence the sound was off,it was a relatively small screen,nobody else was taking any notice of it and I was completely frazzled from the travelling…M’Lord.

Great win though! Hardly anyone there watching and those that were rooted for The Dutch but hey ho…it absolutely poured down halfway through too but this is Hamburg so the weather is basically British.Looks like I’ll be watching the final there too then the next day I’m off to Berlin,where the final will be played.Not my best planning…

Got stopped by a young lady holding a news microphone with a cameraman at her side earlier.When  I said my German wasn’t good enough she said it was for German telly so no good to her( her use of “telly” and her accent made me think she was English herself) before I could ask what it was about they pounced on someone else…could of been my big moment.

Later on having a coffee an elderly couple sat next to me and when i got my phone out the fella said “Are you English?” I hadn’t spoken but it turns out he saw the Wolves badge when I opened my phone.He was from Leeds and his missus was from Chile.They both arrived in Hamburg separately 50 years ago,he was a musician and she escaped the military government on a boat from Santiago to Hamburg ( now that’s a journey!) Interesting couple and we had a good natter…

My cheap useless round sunglasses have finally given up the ghost and snapped in two.They were about a fiver from a Tottenham Court Road souvenir tat shop about 15 years ago and never actually kept out the sun but i liked how they looked…

I’m staying in St Pauli.Many people have heard of the area even those that have never been to Hamburg,mostly this is because of either the left wing football club St Pauli or the infamous Reeperbahn,the mile long strip of sex clubs & dodgy bars.Infact the football ground is at one end of Reeperbahn…but obviously there’s more to it than that.It’s an area with a high degree of what can be classed as alternative lifestyle which appeals to my sensibility.The area passes the Hackney test with flying colours…St Pauli also borders Altona which is also a little bit alternative in parts.

It’s turning into one of those chatty days.Just had a very pleasant hour long convo with a fella from Leipzig but now resident here.That happens sometimes,you’ll have a couple of quiet days then suddenly it’s chatty man all day.Sebastian( the fella) did me a favour as I was crashing hard after two long days travelling,boozing and footballing his company has woken me up…

Back in the football bar from last night.Looks like it might be my local.Again it’s not a “bar” as we would know it in Britain,just a small room selling beer & food with minimal seats inside(maybe for ten people) but enough benches outside on the street for maybe fifty people.Not an uncommon set up in this part of Hamburg,also seen similar in trendy areas of Bremen & Berlin.Possibly an import from Turkish immigrants that has caught on and in good weather is a perfect set up…

Anyway the one big question that always hogs these blogs is laundry.There are two within equal walking distance of about five minutes so that’s not a problem but do i need it yet? Will have to check my bag when I get back.T-shirts are ok I think,socks is not a worry cos’ if I run out I just won’t wear any.But the big one is underwear.Not sure I have more than one clean pair left and even as a slovenly bloke I can’t stretch that until Berlin next week…testing times.

On that note…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#41 Hamburg…

My train to Mannheim from Strasbourg is delayed by an hour,or “Retard 1hr-00“ as the the French put it.My connection from Mannheim to Hamburg is now on course to being lost as I had an hour wait at Mannheim…there is one an hour later so hopefully I can get that one…they might make up the time but my experience says they won’t.Already having flashbacks to my 18 hour Sunday…oh well.They finally posted the platform up but I couldn’t find my carriage so asked a guard and showed him my reservation ticket “Non non non” so my mind was racing.Turns out I nearly got on the train to Rennes and mine is next on the same platform.If in doubt always ask…and of course phew…on the train,on a train anyway.Seats where all fucked but managed to blag one which wasn’t mine.Hopefully this isn’t a sign of things to come.Not got a reserved seat for Hamburg as it was optional and I’ve paid enough out already.Turns out I didn’t really need this one but didn’t know that at the time…god I’m rambling,sorry…again this is becoming a bit of a rigmarole…Train to Hamburg from Mannheim cancelled so only alternative is to go to Frankfurt and pick up a Hamburg train from there.For those that were jealous of the good weather I’ve had you’ll be pleased to know it’s pissing down…

I feel as though I should start this again really cos’ like my train journey it’s all got a bit messy…first train an hour late,second train cancelled,third train 35 mins late.Finally at Frankfurt hoped to get the 13-58( the time now) announced that was running 50 minutes late but as i loudly sighed but silently cursed a Hamburg train came in the next platform that is running just over an hour late.So I jumped on and now I’m pulling out of the station…I don’t normally diss German trains but fuck me they’ve gone down the pan these last five years…hopefully I won’t be broadcasting any more shit train news…but they are nice and comfortable!

About an hour outside Hamburg,over two hours late,ticket gets checked and the cheeky bastard asks to see my passport…just bought a weekly Hamburg transport ticket on my phone and I’m probably still about 50 miles away from the place on a fast moving train.Technology is great except ordering via QR codes in a restaurant…€29 Decent price for all zones etc.

Had a good time last night in Exil’s bar.Got chatting to a few people,French,German,South Korean.It was a lovely hotchbotch of people and a stirring rendition of the French national anthem made me want to storm the Bastille and chop the heads off the aristocracy.Or at least off the owners of Le Bastille bar that charge €11-50 for a Kronenburg…also had a few jäger shots with the very bouncy barmaid who remembered me from the other night…

Getting quite used to seeing heavily armed military strolling around French railway stations very slowly and very menacingly.Usually in groups of six,sometimes as a pack all together or in twos or occasionally walking single file about twenty feet apart…I always have a bit of a worry Incase they beard profile and go postal on me…

Some might bridle at this but as I have a cough and few sniffles and I’m on a long train journey I have decided to wear one of the cloth masks I bought with me( not the Wolves one I have,that must be in bottom of the bag) Used to seeing it from the South East Asians pre pandemic round where I live as a common courtesy to other passengers so I decided to follow suit and fuck anyone who thinks I’m a stupid soft fucker for doing so…

Finally in the hotel.Caught the U-Bahn but decided to get a taxi from Schlump(it’s a place honest) but waited ten minutes and none came so walked.It’s actually not that far really but with bags and the heat(sorry) plus having to keep stopping to look at Google maps it seems ages.Room looks good.Right by the front door which is handy to fall into with a sexy bathroom.It’s one of those where I doubt I’m going to meet any staff.Fully paid up and keypad access to the hotel…

Anyway gonna see if I can find a bar to watch the game…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#40 Strasbourg…Hamburg

Last day in Strasbourg.A lovely city made better by glorious weather,apart from my first day which is probably where I got this cold…our receptionist is a nice bright eyed woman but I do wish she wouldn’t wish me “ have a nice day” even from somebody as naturally upbeat as her it sounds forced.This sort of stuff doesn’t sit well coming from the French or Germans.It sounds as though it’s through gritted teeth…anyway that’s my beef for today…

Had one of those showers this morning where you never want it to end…anyone else ever had that? You think “ I could do this all day” might be a trauma for the chambermaid mind and nobody deserves that.She certainly wouldn’t be wishing me a nice day…

So back to Germany tomorrow.When I organised this trip I thought England would be out of the comp by now to be honest but I get into Hamburg tomorrow just a few hours before they kick off a relatively short distance away in Dortmund.Even though I am staying in St Pauli I will steer clear of Reeperbahn tomorrow as I suspect it will be full of pissed up England fans and after an eight hour journey it’s not something I’d relish…then I go to Berlin the day after the final so I’m arriving when loads of fans will be leaving…

So then Strasbourg? Well it’s got a population about the same as Wolverhampton (about 275,000) but get‘s a lot more tourists.No surprise really as in parts it’s very beautiful and as it’s close to the German border it looks old world German in some areas.It’s also home to the European Parliament and as a consequence has a lot of people from all over Europe working there so they’re used to foreign visitors.If you‘ve never been it’s worth coming.Also a very fast train from Paris if you’re in a hurry…like most European cities the pavement outdoor eating & drinking is thriving,especially down by the river & canal ( they’re kind of interchangeable)

One thing that’s helped me is that my rudimentary German is slightly better than my rudimentary French so being a border town with many locals understanding German I have got by a bit better than I would in somewhere like Lyon…every little helps etc

In the same bar as yesterday with a large undercover seating area outside.There are a few cafe bars around here and this one doesn’t do food so they’ve realised if they allow local office workers to bring their own food they’ll do far more business than if they get arsey about it as it’s a nice calm atmosphere plus a lot cheaper than most other places.Winner all round…

Having thought about any future trips in & around France I think from now on it’s always best if I start in Paris directly from Eurostar.That way any subsequent trips I won’t get caught up in the mayhem like I was last week.They will always demand reservation seat tickets before being able to board so that way I can sort it all out as I go rather than try it on a wing and a prayer,which didn’t really work out too well as my 18 hour journey last week testified…

Really letting the Brit side down here.Been in the bar two hours and had two coffees and now on an iced Orangina(god it’s beautiful on a blisteringly hot day) at this rate I will have my passport revoked when I try to get back into Blighty…shameful.Should be four pints in by now threatening the shrubbery surrounding the bar…

Update on the bar; they do food but still allow many to bring their own in,which I think is a very chilled attitude and more power to their elbow for that…

Had a perfectly valid question from a mate on facebook ( hi Phil) who does a fair bit of travelling around himself in Europe for concerts etc,he asked apart from visiting bars & restaurants in these places what do I do? The truth is that is what I enjoy doing,I may visit the odd historical site or museum in a city but mostly I like just catching the vibe of wherever i am.Many might think that’s a waste but each to their own.Generally i‘m enjoying being relaxed…also when in the bars etc I’m not knocking it back like a stag party in Benidorm.I‘m taking my time enjoying the crack and over this trip & the previous one met some very interesting people…so in conclusion I’m very happy doing nothing,nothing suits me down to the ground…however in saying that I might be sinking a few a bit quicker tonight watching the football!

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#39 Strasbourg…

VIVE LA FRANCE! 

Despite many,including me, having deep reservations about the French elections they came through and gave Le Pen and her bunch of fascists a bloody nose,relegating them to third…went down to reception and asked the young girl there about it and she had a big beam on her face bless her…

Now on to the mundane everyday matters…went for a curry last night but it didn’t quite turn out as I expected.Popped into the place I had seen online and it was empty (6-45pm Sunday so no surprise) no reservations but that was fine.Asked for a menu and the fella pops a QR code thing in front of me and  I explained  I had never used one for ordering in a restaurant and that I’d need help.He gave me the most perfunctory guide imaginable and walked off and I still had no idea…now I am not a Luddite,I have embraced modern technology but I draw the line at this.As I was the only one there I asked if he could just take my order but no.Not a chance so I walked out and of course he couldn’t care less…

So I went to the Tamil round the corner from the hotel,nice friendly staff,proper menues and good food & beer ( Fischer not to be confused with Kingfisher) Excellent…as I said I use modern technology all the time with banking,train tickets etc and also QR codes on my phone too but sometimes I want the personal touch,especially in a shop or restaurant.I know I’m a bit of a dinosaur on this but I don’t care…

Popped to Strasbourg station to see if I can change my train ticket to Hamburg on Wednesday without much hope but it was fine.So instead of a 7-22am train with about four stops I’m on the 9-00am train with only one stop so that’s cool.Once again I’m staying in St Pauli and I’ll also get to meet up with Wolves/Cov Rikky and possibly her mate too.Looking forward to it…

Had my Oyster(not oyster) checked on the tram.It’s always a bit of tricky situation cos’ no matter how much you think you’ve sussed it all out there’s always a chance you’ve messed up big time.Good job I had remembered to validate it earlier but that’s only because I saw a fella do it and a lightbulb went off in my head…the worst thing was it was my stop,got the tap on the shoulder as I was leaving and of course fumbled around like a cliched confused Englishman abroad holding everyone up…luckily it was fine,apart from a few muttered French swear words from the cheap seats…

A French bloke in the bar just asked if I was “From the Island?” 

Got a bit of a headache.It’s not the booze so think it might be a cold,a wee bit bunged up too.In the last few years I think I may have developed a bit of hay fever also, just hope it’s not a new strain of Covid.I know it’s been reported in the UK not sure it’s reached mainline Europe yet…also have a slight temperature,Just my forehead is warm to the touch.There’s a possibility I’m just run down that’s all.May have an early night,don’t really want to as I’m in a great city and the weather is fantastic but hey ho,what can you do.Not twenty five anymore and these things aren’t as easy to shake off…let’s see what tomorrow brings…

In a while crocodile…

Ok not sure what happened but my headache suddenly disappeared! Not taken any paracetamol as I don’t want to jump through hoops in the pharmacy.Unlike in the UK you can’t just pick up a box of 16 for 20p in Aldi…so in time honoured fashion “fuck it,order another drink” I do,after all have a reputation of being a Brit to uphold…

60 Days in Europe…#38 Strasbourg…

Early Sunday morning,it’s sunny after yesterday’s deluge and Strasbourg is waking up to the sound of church bells doing what church bells do…

Sitting in the sun enjoying my coffee.I could have had it in the hotel but I like a smoke with the exotic brown liquid…whichever country I’m in I’m never sure of the protocol concerning cafes or bars.Do I order inside and wait? Do I order inside then grab a seat or just plonk my arse outside and wait to be served.This time I did the latter and even though it took five minutes to be approached I was strong,I was resolute,I was a pillar of strength in the face of overwhelming odds and I got my coffee with the little sweet biscuit thing on the side…in Britain the choice is easy,you order at the counter.If you just sit down after a while you’ll get “ are you gonna order something pal? Cos’ if not you can fuck off” you know where you stand…

Now paying for what you’ve ordered.Silly I know but many places insist on it…in Germany it’s normally either a tab the bartender keeps or the famed beermat mark up and you settle up at the end of the day( or if it’s a long session when that particular person ends their shift and you start again) In Italy you normally have what you have and settle up inside and usually in France they give you the bill on a round black service tray.This is not,and I can’t stress this enough,an ersatz ashtray.You will not be a popular customer if you use it as such…the trick to avoiding any or all miscommunications in ordering & paying is never to spend any money.Simple…

Big election day in France today.They’re on the verge of voting in Le Pen,a nasty piece of work.Not quite sure how things work over here.They had a first vote a week ago and the 2nd is today.A couple of people I have spoken to about it both here & in Paris are not optimistic of any other outcome than Le Pen…have not seen any polling stations or signs for them,do the French all vote by post or online or is it just that I’ve not been in the right areas?

Turns out the France semi final is on my last day in the country and the next day I have an eight hour trip to Hamburg and England play the Dutch in Dortmund a few hours after I get in.No doubt i will watch the French game in the same bar I was in last night and find a bar in Hamburg the next day( many Germans will be supporting England I guess as they really don’t like the Dutch) either way things could get messy for a few days in my little world…

Talking of curry.I wasn’t but it was on my mind yesterday.There’s one round the corner from the hotel which opens at 6-30pm and as there’s no football to distract me tonight it’s looking good.On my last visit here I had one at a place called Tamil and it was the best curry i had on that trip.The bar was pretty low however as if I remember many of them were pretty terrible affairs…maybe that’s the reason I’ve not had one this time.Maybe Strasbourg is Europe’s Brick Lane…

Hold that result! Now the proud owner of a Strasbourg transport card (definitely not oyster) didn’t know I was buying one but the machine spat it out and it’s rechargeable.Three day pass for #10-40.Reasonable price…

Curry time but at Tamil because…

In a while crocodile…