60 Days in Europe…#61 Düsseldorf-London

Thinking my last day would be pretty quiet…was on the tram,inspectors got on,no worries still got a few hours on my app ticket,then the lady asked for ID  card or passport.Obviously I didn’t have my passport with me so she called her three colleagues.By this stage I am the centre of attention on a fairly full tram…even though I had a perfectly valid ticket certain regions also insist you have ID to go with a phone ticket.I was ignorant of this and whilst they were pondering if to fine me I asked if any photo ID with my name on will do because I remembered I had my old bastards don’t pay not nothing on public transport in London (after 9am) so stop your bloody whining pass ( that should be its official title) anyway it passed the old grey whistle test.Just…

At least it gave the watching public something to pass the time.Stupid Englischeser doesn’t know the rules etc.So remember people don’t be ignorant,or if you are, be old,live in London and carry your freedom pass…

After all the years of knocking out this blog on my phone it has taken me until this year to discover how to save text without the pain of banging out an almost full blog then losing it all…it might take time for me to pick up on modern technology sometimes but eventually I get there.Not lost one bit of self indulgent nonsense this time around…

In a previous blog I debated with myself if Italy was beginning to surpass Germany as my favourite country but whenever I come back to Germany it wins me over again(not really difficult) We have this impression in the UK of Germans being a bit uptight & serious( the famous “ no sense of humour “ trope) but in all my visits I have not found that at all…I think the big difference is that over here if someone isn’t interested in having a conversation with you they just won’t bother whereas in the UK we will not shut up shop,talk to a stranger for four hours then at the end of the night say something like “ god what a twat he was” a waste of everyone’s time & effort,and of course if you bump into each other again you’re almost obliged to spend time with them even though it’s the worst thing you can imagine.I have been in this situation myself,doubtless from both sides! As maybe all of the Brits reading this have…you tend to know when a German likes or dislikes you…

Anyway thinking ahead to German trips it might sound strange but I’m happy to keep it to five/six cities that I know quite well and obviously like a lot.Berlin,Hamburg,Leipzig,Düsseldorf,Cologne & Bremen…I want to spend more time in Bremen as I’ve only been there twice and it needs more attention…have been to others of course but that would be my ideal month long trip.Don’t really feel much of an itch to explore elsewhere…will save that for France & Italy…

Been trying to get an angle on ETIAS the visa exemption that’s supposed to be coming in force May 2025.To be fair it’s been coming into force for about five years now so don’t hold your breath.Basically it seems to be something you apply for online,costs about £7 and is valid for three years or until your validity of your passport runs out whichever is sooner…however have also been hearing that now it will require photo & finger print ID.I get the impression nobody really knows what the hell’s going on…if they do photo & fingerprint ID at the point of departure I think we all know how hellish that would be so I’m guessing that would also be online too( hopefully) One way or another it’s coming in but it’s just a case of when & in what form so be prepared otherwise you could miss out on your holidays…

I can hear Yorkshire voices.It’s very disturbing…I feel like my personal space is being violated! Seriously though I’m gonna miss all this.Never felt so relaxed and I don’t just mean today but for the last two months…when I did the three months thing last year it was great an all that but mostly it was a bit of a rush with usually two or three days between travelling.This time it’s closer to five days between cities and it’s far better…now some may say that all I’m doing is going from bar to bar but I’m averaging over 10,000 steps daily but to be fair sometimes it’s been a trek between decent bars…just looked at my kilometre stats and it’s on over 19,000.I think it went a bit haywire after “The French Sunday “ but even if you take off 4,000 km I still think that’s a decent haul around Europe…

The Yorkies are at the “You’re alright Mike I don’t care what they say” stage and it’s only 4-30pm…they need to get in the shade…

Anyway when I get back I need to get out more.I don’t mean doing what I’m doing here because that’s just not feasible in London( the beer’s much more expensive and far worse) but I need to discover more about the city and also get out on the bike more too…the easy thing is to stay in and vegitate…I have also got a few bits of work lined up at my old place too,about four/ five days before Xmas so that’s cool…sorry I’m rambling…

See you later crocodile…

See you back in Blighty.I’m off the French Bar soon for some more cultural enrichment…so that was nice.Got a hug from the sexy landlady.Never got a hug from Gary,just a handshake and no eye contact…as an added bonus the young barman who had a whole Enimen vide and will henceforth be called Stan asked if I was going back to Wolverhampton ( he evidently clocked the badge yesterday) so to save complications I said yes and he tapped his heart twice and any football fan will tell you that means a lot,not as much as a hug from a sexy woman,but a lot.Sweet dreams and hopefully see you on the other side…

60 Days in Europe…#60 Düsseldorf…

Yes day number 60 but not the last day as I always seem to get these things wrong…how wrong could become apparent tomorrow going back to the UK…we will see…

Lots of Rammstein fans around,turns out they’re playing five nights in Gelsenkirchen ( home of Schalke FC) apparently it’s one of the poorest areas of Germany that has a great stadium but not much else going for it…hopefully having a big name band there for an extended stay will help the local economy a bit…

As it’s monday afternoon obviously the local strip is quieter and that means the dancing drunks are more visible especially as most bars are still pumping out either high energy Europop or yer bog standard 80‘s spandex middle of the road rock anthems…blisteringly hot weather,warm beer & mental fragility can be a heady mix.They seem harmless enough but insist on flashing as much potato coloured skin as possible whilst dancing worse than yer pissed up uncle at a family wedding…

Even though Aubeerge‘s is closed I keep bumping into the English barman Gary,both yesterday and again today when he came in the bar I’m in.Not sure who’s stalking who here…

Been very lucky with the wasps this year.Usually I’m plagued by the little bleeders but hardly had a sniff.Maybe it’s because I’m here earlier than usual and they haven’t got into full angry little buggers mode yet…obviously had hassle with mosquitoes early on but they tend to sneak up on you whilst sleeping whereas wasps are literally in your face constantly…note to self get anti histamine tablets from chemist next time.Still got plenty of cream left and also the anti mosquitoes spray too(which also cuts down the threat of West Nile Virus,a comfort I’m sure you’ll agree)

Currently in the most French looking bar I have ever been in despite it being in Germany of course.The landlady either is French of has a very heavy French thing going.I have been very British and volunteered to come inside as it’s rammed outside with at least 25 people taking up space( it is small) and I gave up mine like the heroic little Brit that I am.Also even at 8pm the outside heat is getting to me…anyway just complimented the owner who said as soon as she saw it 17 years ago she said that’s going to be hers…now now no jokes about Germans taking over French things please! Infact I’m not even sure she is German,got a French lilt to her English accent but that could just be an affectation…anyway it’s now my second favourite bar in Düsseldorf and if the lady keeps up her French/German/English hybrid accent it could rapidly become my favourite…

In a while alligators…

60 Days in Europe…#59 Düsseldorf…

Sunday noon and I have just had an outstanding Irish fry up in an Irish bar.The big difference between this and the Berlin one I had a few weeks ago is the Irish understand that green healthy stuff does not belong anywhere near a fry up…real Daddy‘s brown sauce too.It was the dog‘s bollocks…

Last night in the Alt Stadt was hectic as you can imagine.If you’ve not been there’s probably 80 to 100 bars in a very small area and it gets rammed at weekends.It’s a sight to behold with very little trouble that I can see…deep respect for German bar staff who work like Trojans at times like this.I go to a small rock pub called Aubeerge.These are what in Berlin & Hamburg would be smokers bars but Düsseldorf publicans took a vote to ban it.Anyway no matter.I‘m used to that in UK…it’s basically a smaller version of The Giffard in Wolverhampton with the same sort of clientele.Most people sit & stand outside with one or two inside until the rains come and then inside becomes packed with those not able to fit under the canopy.Man alive it’s non stop for the staff,usually three of them.One washing glasses(all by hand.No machines) one continuously pouring and one constantly serving every punter which was maybe 60/70 last night.That’s hard bloody work! It’s a good place and if you go have the local Alt Bier (Frankenheim in this bar) usually comes in small glasses so the more macho may not like it but if you put the “He Man” vibe to one side you may like it…

One thing I learned was that German pubs don’t clean their own pipes.Every week a firm comes in to do it.This might explain in a small way why their beer is constantly good.You rarely,if ever, get a bad drink,you might get a drink you don’t like but that’s a different thing…

Anyway I know I’m nearly at the end of the trip as my ( legal prescription ) drugs have nearly run out…have had a notification from the chemist that my new supply is in last week and I replied that I won’t be able to pick them up until Aug 1st but have no idea if they got the message.They might think I haven’t picked them up because I’m dead! 

Still having leisurely drinks in the Altstadt but changed location a few times.Currently in Bob‘s Punkrock bar.which sounds cool and is fine but obviously has as much to do with punk as UB40 has to do with Roots Reggae…they’re not even playing any music although I did hear the whistle from Rammstein’s “ Engel” but think that was from another bar…But y‘know an old rebel has to make a living…not sure what I’m doing later but it’s probably gonna be more of the same.The sun‘s shining and there’s plenty of people about…unfortunately the rock bar is not open until Wednesday so last night was my last night but I’m not exactly short of options…

Talking of options now is the time I’m beginning to think about upcoming trips next year.My thinking is erring towards breaking it up and doing a month at a time in one country.So a month in France say,take a break back in the UK for a bit then a month in Germany etc…not sure how that would work logistically but it’s worth a go and would certainly cut down on luggage & laundry visits…a German one would be interesting as they are continuing with the monthly €49 rail ticket,which is now available to tourists too apparently.However the big restriction is no fast inter city trains but I could do short regional hops between cities.We will see…will have to work around the football season too.Definitely one to ponder…

Just had a life size Minnie Mouse creep up behind me and scare the bejesus out of me! There was this sudden high pitched squel in my ear and my reaction was predictably “What the fuck?” Which made everyone turn round and Minnie give out another squel…the staff got rid of her but I must admit I was laughing like a drain saying it was fine…mind you I didn’t give any money as you just don’t know how much goes to that well known charitable organisation Disney…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#58 Düsseldorf…

Walking along a side street to the Rhine front earlier taking a picture of what I hope will be a bit of an arty farty epic and a little old lady who was struggling with her zimmer frame on the cobblestones stopped and said something.I thought she wanted help but she said if I wanted an excellent breakfast there’s a lovely little cafe down the road and she scuttled off…people are sometimes just sort of nice for no reason.In the great scheme of things it means nothing but in my little world,and hopefully hers,it meant a lot…

There’s a French festival going on down by the river at the moment because they probably haven’t had a festival for a few weeks and were getting a bit angsty about it,now of course it’s an idealistic rural version of France,much like a German themed one would be Lederhosen,Umpah music and busty fraus in Drindls and a Uk one church bells,poundshops and farmboys getting pissed on sheepdip cider but man alive when you see the cheese and wine with Edith Piaf yammering away in the background it makes you wanna go all middle class and recreate “A Year in Provence“ 

Had a bit of a heart stopping moment earlier.As is my way as soon as I get somewhere I check up on my leaving arrangements.Don’t know why but it’s got me out of a few tricky situations by dealing with them early…as I’m leaving for London on Wednesday I checked my paper reservation tickets( essentially my boarding passes to both Cologne- Brussels and Brussels-London) couldn’t find them.I had paperwork but not the correct paperwork,Off to the HBF to see if they could help.The fella there was incredulous,it’s probably the most un-German thing he’s ever heard! No they could’nt help and he wished me well much like a parent does when their five year old decides to run away from home…

Let me explain.When I first printed this stuff off months ago there were reams of it,all in very very small print.The kind of small print that even terms of agreement fine print would say “Jeez give the bloke a chance” so i kept it all then Eurostar changed the Cologne-Brussels times which resulted in yet more…still here? Good.So time for a coffee and a smoke and a good think about what to do…went through the complete works of War and Peace again to see if I had missed anything and found the updated Cologne- Brussels ticket complete with the crucial QR code.One bit sorted…never found the Brussels-London stuff so decided to really give my Interrail app a good long look,found the automated help line and they talked me through it and the upshot is I now have an email of my ticket( sent to my junk mail naturally) now all I need is to get it printed off.I may ask the hotel,find a shop on monday or wait until I get to Brussels.They have the facilities at St Pancras so maybe they have it too.Mad that you still need a paper ticket…one way or another I’ll work it out…oh and I might be a day over my Interrail limit too on Wednesday! Hahaha Will sort that out if or when the need arises…

On the subject of stupidity.Never order a local transport ticket on your phone when not completely sober.Did one last night,only going one stop and ended up buying god knows what…let’s say I spent more on the ticket than six Alt Biers! 

We all like to think we’re a good judge of people on first impressions and my first impression of the hotel manageress was that she was a bit of a harridan.Just got back from an all day session and was having a smoke outside.She came out and I thought “here we go” she said i could smoke on the balcony outside my room( i am on the top floor) that even though i have’nt booked in for breakfast i can have free coffee when i want and she also gave me a free bottle of Alt Bier as a night cap.I could’nt be more wrong about her…

In a while crocodile…

Ps I also managed to buy the correct U-Bahn ticket even though I have had considerabley more than six Alt Biers…

60 Days in Europe…#57 Düsseldorf…

No drama today,yet…got kicked out of my seat because,well it wasn’t mine.The fella was very nice about it and even pointed out an unreserved seat…they don’t do the English “ I’m terribly sorry but I think that’s my seat but if you want to stay in it please do,sorry.I will go and sit on the floor outside the Stinking toilet for three hours,sorry “ The Germans tend to hover over you until you move without saying a word except “ that is my seat” 

One thing German trains,and it seems most other European trains too,do,or don’t do,is list off every bloody item that’s on sale in the buffet and then also list every item that isn’t available that day thereby making any train journey seem double in length.No it’s usually a case of “The buffet is in coach C and it’s open” They know we know what stuff they sell and if they don’t have it then tough,have something else…

However what German inter city trains do that is good is a few minutes before arriving at a station they go through what connections there are and from what platforms they go from.A valuable help if you’re in a tight race to catch a connection.They normally do it in German,French & English because,yea of course they bloody do…

Almost perfect,off at Hannover and my connection to Düsseldorf was on the opposite platform while also giving me time for a smoke.No need for another change either and have a six berth carriage to myself (at the moment)The only sticking point is that it was lovely and hot in Leipzig and of course I’m in shorts & t-shirt…

but it‘s grey cold & wet this side of the country but I don’t think even the Germans can blame DB for that…just another two and half hours to go then…

Judging by the news thank god I chose to go to France pre Olympic Games.Sounds like their rail network is at a complete standstill.Those Frenchies know how to maximise their industrial action! 

Some of you might bring into question my musical taste and even I think “why the hell do I like that?” One such case in point might be “ Tales From Topographic Oceans” by Yes…long winded and up it’s own arse but perfect for looking out of a train window passing flatland that seems to go on forever.Four twenty odd minute tracks of losing yourself in hippy nonsense…don’t worry I did cleanse my palate later with The Clash’s “Give ‘Em Enough Rope” which does also seem to fit in with the industrial heartland of the Ruhr we passed through…

Did ok with the 6 berth to myself,from Hannover to Dortmund, my stop is next anyway so pleased with that.Not that I’m anti social in anyway…now passing through Wuppertal where I started two months ago.It’s only a few miles from Düsseldorf…and the weather looks a wee bit brighter too..,

As you can imagine the Aldstadt was heaving,Luckily Gary is still alive and doing well in the bar I go to.He was telling me the place was rammed all the time during the month of the Euros as a lot of fans based themselves in the area and there was little to no trouble so it all worked out well…

Had six glasses of Alt Bier ( they’re only small glasses) and the famed beermat mark up which I think only happens in this area now…€14.

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#56 Leipzig—Düsseldorf

“Hallelujah “ No I have not hacked into Jacob Rees Mogg’s Twitter account,this is all I have heard coming from buskers in every city I have been to on this jaunt.It is the modern equivalent of Ralph McTell’s “ Streets of London “ and in my humble opinion a much better tune.Good old Leonard Cohen…

Had an excellent night in the squatters bar opposite the hotel.Did that thing of only popping in for one and staying nearly four hours…chatting to both the barmaid and a lad at the bar(I think they were an item ) just shooting the breeze.Got well and truly called out by the barmaid at one point when she served a half red wine half Sprite concoction and I naturally made a comment and she did an exaggerated English accent “ oh I used to work with wine!” And to be fair I was coming over as a pompous ass,got called on it and it made me laugh my arse off…they also found my attempt at saying “Tschüss “ very funny too( it’s not easy honest) anyway it was a good night with a lot of bollocks talked…don’t worry the piss taking wasn’t only one way,I gave my share back…the name of the bar is “Azadi” which is Kurdish and means freedom…

Last day in Leipzig and I must say because it’s a lot smaller than Berlin everything seems a lot more familiar.Maybe that’s why I feel pretty comfortable here despite less English being spoken(the young scamps I spoke with last night had excellent English) but once again it’s an agreeable place all round.The outskirts do look a bit rough around the edges but don’t let that deter you from a visit.Mostly that’s due to any investment being in the centre with the suburbs being left to their own devices.A common theme in East Germany I’m afraid…tomorrow I’m off to Düsseldorf which is always my last port of call on these trips as it’s a short ride to Cologne to get Eurostar back to Blighty,it’s a bit like putting on comfy slippers at home after a long day at work…

Mind you the Altstadt area of Düsseldorf does get pretty busy and there’s a lad from Nottingham called Gary who I always have a good natter to works in one of the bars.Last time I saw him he assured me if he wasn’t behind the bar next time I’m there then he’s probably dead.He’s a cheery soul…

Taken the plunge and gone back to Spizz for a Tomaten Suppe.My last for a while so might as well.Even bought extra tissues as this beard holds a lot!

There does seem to be a few more tourists around now than earlier in the week.Many of them Germans which would make sense as Leipzig is an historic city both with music & literature…have a lot of tours of elderly Germans especially around the passage & Bierkeller where Goethe hung around playing footsie with the Devil…

One thing I have noticed over these last two months is although I have had a drink or two( or more) every day apart from the horrendous French train day that is,I have slowed down to a pace where even the shuffling zombies on The Walking Dead would turn round saying “bloody hell get a wriggle on sunshine” the term “leisurely “ hardly covers it.I have never been the quickest drinker going but I’m badly out of practice for the upcoming football season.I may have to revise my strategy and stick to smaller bottles rather than pints…that probably seems to be the answer.

Talking of drink I’m having a nightcap or two in Azadi.My new friends aren’t in but I knew that anyway…I have found so many of these chilled little scruffy bars all over during my visit round various parts of Europe.All away from the centre of whichever city I am in an all seem content in serving the community rather than making an insane profit and all of them are supported by that community.This of course used to be commonplace in the UK but sadly is becoming more & more rare.The fault of both the breweries,landlords & communities equally in my view…another reason why I enjoy these trips more than  just staying in Britain in what is becoming an increasingly rip off culture…

Anyway…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#55 Leipzig…

Nearly 8am and I’m in the laundromat.The thing is I am sure I have used this one before on one of my previous shorter trips around Germany & Czechia.I would say it was maybe 2017 when I was staying around the corner and as soon as I saw this place it all clicked in…so now I am doing repeat journeys to laundromats! Rinse & repeat! 

That’s all done until London in a weeks time hopefully.Mind you if I do need an emergency wash I know one in Düsseldorf that I’ve used a couple of times also,at least I do remember using that one unlike today…the one thing I do recall about that stay is upsetting the chambermaid when I arrived and she scowled at me all week despite my efforts to be cheery and pleasant with her.She really resented me for being ten minutes early checking in! Hahaha

Even though the part of the city I’m staying at is fine I’m just taking a look around the Connewitz area to the south and it looks far more interesting & lively( for one thing wider pavements ergo more street activity.It’s definitely a thing) think I have only really scratched the surface of this city and when I come back might stay in this area.I think it’s also the arty part too so that always lends itself to a bit more of a hedonistic vibe…

I got it wrong about the transport app for Leipzig.It‘s called Leipziger and you can buy tickets on it.Good to know for the future…

Just had a look on the map and it’s mad to think I’m only just over a hundred miles from where mom & dad lived in Karlovy Vary in West Bohemia Czechia just after WW2.However it’s over a five hour train journey to get there from here.Infact Karlovy Vary seems to be a very long train journey from everywhere for some reason.Last time I was in Czechia a local told me the place was now run by Russian oligarchs which is sad if true…

I know it’s out of football season but I have not seen one RB Leipzig shirt being worn.Seen a few others,even a few PSG(?) for those not in the know RB are the most hated team in Germany and indeed around the world as their owners ( Red Bull) have run roughshod over every rule imaginable and somehow got away with it…not only with Leipzig but with about five or six clubs worldwide,they have just got a foothold in Britain with Leeds…as a team Leipzig have been consistently up near the top of the Bundesliga for years and attract 50,000 + crowds so it seems strange not to see even kids wearing their shirts…maybe they just give away loads of freebies to give the impression of being well supported…

Currently close to 4pm on Wednesday.Sitting outside an Irish bar as it’s off the main drag and not rammed( getting my excuses in) Even though the weather is a bit rainy the city is still pretty full midweek with shoppers or punters just having lunch etc.Remember this is not a main tourist hub but a city in the old GDR supposedly beset by economic problems yet still manages to be full to bursting on a Wednesday afternoon with grey clouds hanging around and yet we still hear in our media how Europe is failing,I have been dragging my sorry arse around this “ failing “ Europe for five month out of the last twelve,close to 40 different cities in 13 different countries and all I have seen is prosperity and people enjoying their life…anyway after this pint I’m off for Currywurst mit Pommes und eines Bier.So there…the Currywurst might be on hold as the heavens have opened so there’s a strong possibility I’ll be eating here…

Settled for fish & chips here.It was fine as you’d expect but I have noticed that tarte sauce in continental Europe is always saltier than ours…maybe it’s the use of different mayonnaise…anyway one thing I have noticed about Germans too is their almost pathological refusal to use umbrellas.It’s been grey & overcast all day and I’d think 80% of Brits would have taken a brolly with them.Today when it was raining on and off maybe an eighth of the people passing had one.Many wearing hats of course but that’s not the point…

I seem to have banged on a lot more than usual today ( making up for no show earlier in the week) one thing I have noticed about German bars/ cafes is they routinely put out a bowl of water on the pavement for any passing dog to quench a thirst.They don’t have to be patrons of the establishment and as dogs are notoriously carefree about the economy that’s probably a good thing,but it’s just a nice thing to do.On that happy note…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#54 Leipzig…

Was asked a question today by my friend Sue about if I was getting homesick and yes a bit of me is but now I’m sitting in a beautiful arcade at a cafe called Mephisto where Goethe was inspired to write Faust in the Bier Keller next door and I’m thinking “ nah fuck it,this is the life” ( sorry Sue)

One thing Leipzig has a lot of are linked arcades,old fashioned,ornate arcades.Very beautiful and very photogenic.For any older Wufrunian readers they’re reminiscent of the two Victorian arcades we had in Wolverhampton that mysteriously burned down just as planning permission was being discussed for the Mander Centre.Unaccountable fires are not uncommon in Wolverhampton when the preservation of historical important buildings is in discussion higher up the food chain…

My hotel is run by Vietnamese.Been there before and it’s very good,a little away from the city but right next to a tram stop so all good.My only problem is the name’s Merseburger Hof and every time I think of it’s name I get “Paul Merson’s Burger Yard” not only have I never seen the great man but his burgers have never appeared in the yard either…all that aside it’s a decent place.There was a pop up bar over the road last time.A sort of squatters bar but it looks like it’s gone legit now as it has a proper name outside…sadly the laundry bar over the road has closed but I have located one two tram stops away so that’s the early morning call as I’m wearing my last clean t-shirt…

Young lad next to me got caught with no ticket on the tram last night.He tried to English his way out of it by being all apologetic etc( he was English) but they were having none of it and fined him €80…being a bit of a dick I went full English too when mine was checked so he clearly heard me…here’s the thing.He got on the stop before the guards,saw them and tried to get off but by then the tram had started again and he got clobbered so he knew the score…he tried to say the machine wasn’t working but that didn’t wash and why should it? I have my ticket until 6pm tonight but have already bought another one as it’s not timed from purchase but by validation so it’s just about forward planning or paying up when caught…getting on my moral high horse there for a bit…

Leipzig is very tram heavy and it’s a great way to get around.Some call it the “ New Berlin “ but personally I think that’s only because it’s relatively close.The vibe is totally different to my eyes.There’s plenty of bars in the City Centre of course but the outskirts has a lot less going on.There are cafe bars but they’re a bit more hidden,this seems to be partly due to logistics as their pavements are as narrow as ours in many parts so it’s just impossible to get benches & seating areas together.Shame as I’m sure many would if they could…in saying all that it’s a fine place with lots to offer a visitor…

I was saying earlier that i might be a wee bit homesick but not too much,which is a fair assessment I think but i am slowing it down a bit,especially since a good few late nights on the bounce in Berlin.My head sometimes says I’m 25 but the rest of me usually gives it a sharp reminder who the boss is…also it teemed down with rain and I have muthaflipping laundry very early tomorrow…not all fun & games…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#53 Leipzig…

Sitting outside my latest favourite little cafe close to the hotel before buggering off to Leipzig.The owner said “Here you come every day,this is big compliment for us yes?” Which for some reason made me laugh a bit and I don’t know why…

Anyway auf wiedersehen Berlin.In the words of a famous Austrian,no not that one,the other one “ I’ll be back” don’t know when yet but probably next year at some stage…meanwhile I need to download one last U-Bahn ticket and make my way to the huge behemoth lump of a station to get the train.Luckily it’s not a long journey to Leipzig and hopefully DB are not playing up.I also know where the hotel is and which tram to get so all I need to do is get a local ticket on my phone but that can wait till I get there…luckily too it’s overcast & grey and not blisteringly hot…

As much as i love Berlin HBF with its five or six floors of madness there is one problem.With thousands upon thousands of people passing through daily they only have one small toilet which probably just about reaches official standards but is an absolute pain.If you need to go but obviously can hold on a bit then get on an S Bahn train to Zoologischer Garten next stop along and use the one‘s there…another tip for any smokers.Berlin HBF is one of the few German stations where there’s no smoking but instead of going outside either main entrance where you will be immediately ambushed by beggers go to a side entrance where all the train staff light up….this has been a public service announcement…

Did I say easy? Was on the platform and tried to activate my Interrail pass and kaput,no go so couldn’t get on the train.So what do I do in a time of crisis? Swear a bit,go for a smoke,swear a bit more,rinse & repeat…I had to get to Leipzig as the hotel is booked so went to ticket office and had to buy a physical ticket for €50.Not cheap but no choice…I am hoping it’s a weird phone thing as there were loads of people in the ticket office holding their phones and complaining…I will find out more when I get to Leipzig and can sit down with a beer.If it’s not the network then somehow I might have lost my Interrail ticket.We will see.Finally left Berlin on a Munich train,grabbed a seat but have the company of not one,but two,whining nippers in the carriage…

Phew! Relief (but €50 lighter) just tried my Interrail and it worked.Trouble is I couldn’t take the risk of it not kicking in on the train and getting fined a lot more than fifty sobs…I was already thinking of plans if it had just wiped out altogether.Basically that was keep moving around Germany forever or something…oh and we‘re running late of course…so a valuable lesson.Don‘t panic,swear a lot,waste good money and take up smoking..,

Good night chatting to the owner of Madonna Bar…hardly anyone in there so he was a prisoner to my inane ramblings…i think I’m now banned.

Currently sat at what looks like a godforsaken town called Lutherstadt Wittenberg and all the train staff are on the platform having a smoke…not all Geman towns are chocolate box Bavarian dreamscapes,some,particularly in the East still look like old Soviet gulags…

Got to the hotel eventually,even though I knew which tram to get it took ages to get here then I hardly recognised anywhere we passed until eventually I saw the hotel over the road from the stop and honestly I can’t remember that last year as I walked up a fairly steep road…maybe they have changed the route a bit.Anyway bad news is that the sexy laundry/bar thing over the road has closed down so tomorrow I’m on the hunt for a patch of water and an agreeable rock…

In a while crocodile…

Ps Had forgotten that Leipzig don’t have an app for their transport system so it’s ticket machine or local tabac/Lotto shop.Then of course remember to validate it…

60 Days in Europe…#51/52 Berlin—Leipzig.

Many apologies for yesterday’s non appearance on here.I could claim something grandiose like writers block,or more accurately,Bloggers bollocks,but the truth is after a good few days of Berlin living I was knackered and frankly couldn’t be arsed…

Most of you are probably aware I write this on the hoof during the day then post it on social media the next day and as I didn’t knock anything out during the day yesterday I couldn’t do one this morning and also another later on the same day.That would be slightly dishonest,very time consuming and also I didn’t wake up till way past 8am this morning! 

Anyway it’s my last full day in Berlin and of course it’s been a blast.Spent a fair bit of the nights drinking in Kreuzberg in my favourite bars…managed to be allowed into the Wild at Heart last night.Couple of bands on,they were ok,it’s live music by bands I have never heard of so it’s a case of pays yer money and takes yer chance…had a bit of a chat with the landlady as i always do when I visit.To be honest i have no idea if she remembers me as she probably gets hundreds of strangers wanting to chat to her and us old un‘s tend to look the same after a while…but she’s always open to chat if she’s not serving or bollocking her DJ.Quite a character…

Waiting for the bus with a couple of Turkish blokes,one of whom was falling over pissed(a big lad too) and his mate who told me he’d arranged to meet his pal but when he got there he was already rawing drunk so he stayed on the soft drinks to look after him…must admit I was touched by his actions.Giving up his Saturday night(this was about 1-30am) for his mate…true friendship.

The hotel I’m in has something I’ve never seen before,along with the “do not disturb “ sign is a “ my room doesn’t need cleaning “ sign and I think that’s a really good idea.Let’s be honest unless you do something unspeakable in the room it shouldn’t need cleaning daily.All most people do is sleep & shower.Really how much attention does it need? I have had it cleaned twice in a week and that’s plenty in my book…

Every Berliner I have spoken to and mentioned I’m off to Leipzig next (tomorrow) has wrinkled their nose a wee bit at the mention of the city.Personally i think it’s a good place but my thinking is it’s like many Londoners dislike other parts of their own country simply because it’s not London (except Bristol.They all love Bristol and don’t the Bristolians hate that!) I imagine it’s the same in every capital the world over.If you’re not there then you’re not anywhere…

Been trawling around Berlin today taking some pics which i’ll post to Facebook & Instagram later( plus making good use of my weekly transport ticket) but there’s one pic I really wanted but was too scared to take as there were some rough looking geezers outside I doubt they’d take kindly to strangers taking pictures of their shop called “Spätify“ much like we have “ Singhbury’s “ back in Wolves I don’t think the big companies take kindly to having the piss taken out of them…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#50 Berlin

Got my fry up a day later than expected…wasn’t looking for one but thought I’d visit a bar/restaurant I used when I stayed in Moabit a few years ago.It’s called Lichtblick  next to Birkenstrasse U-Bahn (U9).Looked at the menu and “London” stood out as a fry up…it wasn’t exactly as you’d expect but very passable.They did put some salad on it in a crafty underhanded attempt to make us Brits healthier but I soon saw through that and ignored it…I dare not as for brown sauce as I don’t think that’s a concept over here.All in all very nice,it satisfied an itch and not a jolly fake leprechaun in sight…

Went along to Bowie’s old house in Schöneberg.Not much there to be honest except a bust & plaque.I would think Bowie would hate it being too big & too much…my one slight moan is the likeness is from his Alladin Sane period before moving to Berlin whereas making it from his time here would have been more appropriate but maybe less recognisable…ah well it is what it is…

Had a nice conversation with a few middle aged ladies in the bar last night.Naturally one lived in London in the 90‘s around Clapham Common.There was four of them and they all lived on the same floor of one of big blocks you see everywhere in this city.One asked if I was French cos‘ she said when I tried some German I sounded like I was doing a bad French impression of a German! Hahaha…

Just after 6pm sitting outside Madonna Bar in Kreuzberg with a nice pint watching the world go by and it’s a beautiful day( don’t worry I’m in the shade) this is why I do this thing,Just sitting back relaxing.The weird thing is being in bars on my own in the UK I occasionally feel a bit self conscious but whilst abroad it’s never a concern…this is nearly the fifth month out of the last twelve I have spent out of the UK and apart from one or two rare occasions I have loved every minute of it and I’m so glad I took the decision to do it,if anyone else reading this is wondering if to give it a go then I’d say bloody hell yea.Sorry getting very reflective all of a sudden…anyway there’s a fella with a slight Black Country/ possibly Brummie accent and I’m bound to talk to him soon…

Turns out he was a guitar maker from Birmingham living in Berlin with his Dutch missus.Gary & Barbara( which does sound like a failed 80‘s sitcom) sound couple but we were getting more Midlands as the drinks kicked in…to be fair they were mid 70‘s and looked about 50! 

Chatted to an auld fella after G & B had left.Mostly about the old Berlin Wall.He was what they call a “Wessie”  meaning born west of the wall.Was telling me on the night he & his mates wanted to see the east so fought their way through thousands of people going the other way! Brilliant stuff…had a great night chatting…the only fly in the ointment is Wild at Heart won’t let me in as they’re sold out but the fella did say it’s far too crowded,hot & sweaty in there and to come back tomorrow when it’s gonna be much more acceptable…

In a while crocodile..,

60 Days in Europe…#49 Berlin…

Well I never got my English fry up but I did have scrambled eggs & onion ( which shouldn’t work but does) around the corner…it seems the best place to get a full English is in an Irish bar,which of course would make it a full Irish and I would imagine that’s pretty much the same… 

Getting to the end of my trip and one thing struck me today as I strolled behind a British couple down a typical Kreuzberg street between Oranienplatz & Görlitzer Bahnoff and they were remaking how dirty it was,but here’s the thing,it’s not dirty at all,yes there’s graffiti almost everywhere & most other spaces have some sort of billboard or stickers on them but that’s not dirt…the streets & pavements are remarkably clean of waste paper,food wrappers & discarded bottles/cans ( because of the Pfand I discussed previously) Where I am sitting outside a run of the mill cafe I can see four rubbish bins that are emptied at least once a day,usually more,all with compartments for smokers butt ends too,go down most streets in the UK and you might see one bin that’s usually overflowing cos‘ it’s never emptied,it’s embarrassing…

Where I stayed in St Pauli every property,that’s no exaggeration either,was plastered with graffiti,now that might look unsightly to many but once again the streets were clean of normal rubbish.Sometimes in my road in the UK it looks like someone has taken a paperboy‘s full bag and thrown all the newspapers in the air allowing the wind to take care of it.Really if these so called rough & dirty & very busy areas of German cities can stay clean so can ours…maybe we don’t have the same civic pride and also don’t take as much responsibility for our own actions…

There’s also any green spaces in the urban parts that are allowed to grow unhindered.I don’t know if this is deliberate for environmental reasons of lack of funding but once again to our UK eyes if we see an uncut verge in the street it causes offence but here it’s just a patch of grass so where’s the harm? 

One last thing, a bit more personal based.The bars & cafes I tend to use all look unkept,a bit rough & ready and not the type of place to take your grannie( honestly your grannie was probably a free love hippie in the 60‘s,she‘d love it) but for one they’re usually the friendliest places you’ll visit,two they look dirty but are far from it especially the toilets.Normally they‘re covered in graffiti & stickers and a bit dark & dingy looking but crucially they always smell fine and they always have everything you need in a public toilets…in every sense with these areas of these cities looks can be very deceiving.Trust your senses  not your perceptions…

Of course these places are far from perfect and I would advise against eating off the floor anywhere I have described but no matter how dirty they do get,especially on a market day they’re always spotless 7am next day…anyway change of subject,just popped to Schlesische Tor ( nope,still can’t say it) to visit another favourite bar Zur Fetten Eck and it’s closed till September and not even my Patience goes that far…

Chatting to the barman here from Chile.The third Chilean  have met inside a week.Sewer rat Farage never warned us of the European invasion from a long country in South America bringing their Chilean things like…er, well you know…nice lad,learning German to become a citizen but as he said working here it’s all bloody tourists and he’s not learning anything.Mind you he is working in a Spanish bar!  Now I have met yet another Chilean albeit working in the same bar.This time a bright eyed barmaid…they come over here being intelligent,interesting,attractive & hard working.Bastards…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe.. #48 Berlin…

Ok I’m in Bar Madonna so can confirm it’s still an ongoing event,got the bus from the hotel so all is good with the world except up the road are a ton of Polizei so either something is about to happen or it already has…had a bit of a stroll round Museum Island earlier but didn’t go in to any of the museums.I think I have become spoiled by some of the best museums in the world being free in the UK that I bridle at paying to get in…was surprising how few people were around and this was early afternoon too.In general there seems less people around now than I have ever seen( or not seen) before…

If I have done my calculations correctly I’m ok on the laundry front until Monday or Tuesday when I will be in Leipzig.Staying at a hotel I was in last year and over the road is a laundrette with a bar etc.It’s very nifty.That should be my last mainland European laundry experience for this trip unless something disastrous happens and then Düsseldorf is my back up…if anyone needs a rough guide type thing on Euro Laundromats I’m yer man…

My one big problem with the German bar tab thing is as I’m British I feel honour bound to have at least two drinks on the tab and usually more.Now I realise that as problems go it’s not the worst and neither is it a very difficult one to negotiate my way out of,it’s just I think my innate Britishness won’t allow me to wig out at one drink.Let’s be honest one drink is not a tab,to be fair two drinks barely covers the description either.A tab only starts at three in my book and nothing will convince me otherwise…

Had to tell a young girl to fuck off earlier today.I went to Gesundbrunnen ( the original home of Hertha Berlin) to grab some food and was eating it on a bench by the station.Outside eating & drinking not uncommon here.There were a couple of teenage girls with a teenage lad having a bevvy about 20 yards away egging each other on in some sort of dare game.This was about 10am so they’d probably been out all night.I could see what was going on as they approached various bemused people and I saw the fella side eye me and whisper to the girl,she got up to come over so I just said loudly and very English “ Whatever you’re gonna do don’t,fuck off,I’m not in the mood” Don’t know if she understand but they got the message and also bust out laughing…but they didn’t bother me after that…

The trouble with having a bus route from pub to hotel is you have to sit down and the trouble with sitting down after a lengthy session is sleep inevitably follows…my inner guidance isn’t in the zone on this bus route yet so obviously I missed my stop by a fair few but luckily stayed awake for the return.I just hope my Zzzzzz decibels weren’t too high on the bus…inevitably woke up fully clothed on top of the bed and now I need coffee and I also want a fry up… there must be a cafe in Berlin that does English breakfast,the hunt has begun…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#47 Berlin…

Normally beggars don’t get to me too much,as a smoker I get my fair share of people asking for a tab & money.Sometimes I give,sometimes not,depending on my mood and also sometimes on the mood of those asking.It’s arbitrary as I can’t give to everyone but everyone knows the score…having a beer outside the Italian restaurant yesterday I was’nt taking much notice of things and suddenly there was a kid of about 7 years old standing at my table,hand out and clearly fake crying.I have to admit I gave out a loud “ what the fuck is this bullshit” to nobody in particular (the table next door were amused but also incredulous) I looked around and sure enough mom was about 30 feet away,another kid was working the other tables and she was directing…I didn’t want to be rude to the nipper but when her mom looked over I gave her two fingers which,on reflection,probably didn’t translate…but man using your kids is fucking cynical.At least when someone is bumming a smoke it’s fucking honest…

Anyway enough of that.Although I like to think I know my way around Berlin (I do a little) I still took one of those maps from reception as a failsafe even though I never look at them they do also have a decent U-Bahn map attached which is always handy.It’s a bit like someone going to London a couple of times thinking they‘re a pearly king taxi driver with the knowledge when really they’re Dick Van Dyke trying to get it on with Mary Poppins…cor lummee.

So I’m currently strolling down the Spree,not actually on it of course as that would be showing off and bringing attention to myself…having a drink next to the East Side Gallery by the Oberbaumbrüke.I stayed on the boat moored up beside it last year and it’s a cool area especially up the road around Warschauer Straße.The later it gets the livelier in that area…not really for us old types.Although it was this area where I got my first introduction to Berlin at the Punk and Disorderly festival at the sprightly age of 58 with a few Wolves mates…

Right I am officially pissed off.My three favourite bars are next to each other on Wienerstrasse Kreuzberg.The Wild at Heart,Bar 11 and Madonna but unfortunately Madonna has closed down for business ( no sniggering at the back) what a shame…had some good sessions in there,the last of which was last summer with the Forest Gate crew.The bar is just shuttered up at the moment so I live in hope( more than expectation)

Well like supporting Wolves my ire was short lived about the Madonna bar.The barman at Bar 11 thought I meant closed at the moment whereas I meant closed for good…so it is an ongoing concern just opens at 5pm now…neither of us look like Bill Murray or Scarlett Johansson but you know “Lost in Translation “ etc My chuff is fully chuffed.Gives me more of an excuse to come to this part of Kreuzberg…

Was chatting to a fella about football,he’s HSV from Hamburg.He smoked a shit load of skunk whilst I have been here,offered me a few tokes but I declined as the stuff now makes me ill very quickly…anyway they seem a good crowd.There was also a couple of Cologne fans there too,a heavy storm came so obviously I stayed for another beer ( at €3 for a bottle of Czech Bud I’d be a fool not to) so in conversation it turns out the bus I kept seeing stop outside the bars goes to within one street of my hotel and they are in service all night…could be a blessing & a curse.

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#46 Berlin…

On the train from Altona-Hamburg to Berlin and definitely made the correct decision to start from here.Plenty of seats available but it would have been an unseemly scramble at Hamburg HBF,at least here there’s no rushing about.One to log for future trips…

The modern world introduced itself to my phone again last night by the hotel in Berlin sending me an email with a checking in thingy ( see I even have the jargon down) did it this morning and also downloaded the app as I can see it being very beneficial in the future as I hate the pantomime of checking in questionnaires.”do I fill this bit in? What about that part? Ah yes I see…sorry I think I filled in the wrong bit” all been there i imagine…the app is called “Hotelbird”

We have left on time! Sorry for dissing you Deutsche Bahn in the past,you are wonderful and can do no wrong…have done the Hamburg to Berlin trip a few times and once out of Hamburg there’s really nothing to see except hundreds of miles of flat farmland.In a dull way it’s quite awesome…personally I’d be happy to add an hour and run along the Baltic coast.That would be something but I’m probably in a minority of one on that idea…

Haha in the space of two stops within the same city we have lost five minutes.Never change DB…

Nice trip in,DB made up the time which it can do on these longish runs,after Hamburg the next stop was Berlin Spandau (stop that! We’ll have no singing in the back) Found the hotel pretty easily as did everyone else it seems as the reception was packed and my room wasn’t ready so in time honoured fashion I dumped my bags and went for a beer…which is where I find myself now.

I’m in an Italian restaurant just having a beer opposite my favourite U-Bahn station,Wittenbergplatz.A two minute walk from the hotel,it’s a great little building both inside & out but crucially also has a cracking Currywurst stand over in one corner of the street and I’m sure i’ll be making use of it during the week…

I find Berlin immensely fascinating.The place seems to have a hold on me like no other.I’m sure most people find their own place in the world like that and mine is Berlin.There’s nothing particularly outstanding about the architecture either the modern or the little that’s left of the old,in truth it looks pretty ordinary & dull in parts but it holds a grip…I imagine the recent history has a lot to do with it,from the decedent 1920’s to the Nazi era right through to the split Soviet city from the 50’s to the 80’s…I still find myself walking about wondering what side of the wall I would be on…

Think I’m gonna be staying local tonight anyway,normally do even after a relatively short journey.There’s not a great deal round here per se but enough for one person to be getting along with,I actually want to find a proper bar as I always feel a bit conspicuous being in a restaurant with only a drink,something I’d never dream of doing in the UK ( probably wouldn’t be allowed to) but here it’s accepted.I always ask though just to make sure.Occasionally places won’t allow it,I suppose it depends how busy they are or will be…

Not seen many English fans around,only one or two with their partners( wearing England tops.That’s how I guessed Sherlock) most will have been on a plane back this morning I guess…obviously there’s gonna also be a sizeable quantity that live here too or some like me who’re just bumming around…

Must have journeyed into the huge Berlin HBF almost ten times now and every time it floors me and I get lost in there.Whilst here I use it fairly regularly too and it does get easier to negotiate,so much so I’m almost a local by the end of the week but then I forget,come back a few months later and get totally flummoxed again so any attempt to look cool are rendered null & void…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#45 Hamburg—Berlin…

Last day in Hamburg and normally I’d be having a bevvy by now(12-40) but because the game kicks off a lot later tonight I’m holding back a bit and just on the coffee…

Popped into Altona earlier to check out where exactly the mainline station is for tomorrow.My train starts there and as it’s the Munich train I expect it to get packed at Hamburg HBF.I don’t have a seat reserved so figured it would be easier to find one at the relatively small Altona station…glad I did cos’s it not very easy to find being tucked away in a corner and not particularly well sign posted.Preparation an’ all that…luckily not in a rush tomorrow.

Went to the Feldstrasse Bunker earlier to see about going up and once there I realised I wouldn’t be able to make the climb,asked about a lift and explained why and they pointed me to one but it was only going five floors( which would have been fine) however there was not access to the viewing decks, the only way to them would be through offices which were all shut as it’s Sunday.There was a service lift outside round the corner but I chickened out as there were a few people already eyeing me with suspicion…

There’s not a lot to say about Hamburg that I haven’t already said in blogs on previous visits.If you’ve been you already know what a cool & exciting city it is,if you haven’t been then it’s certainly worth a long weekend break and if you’re a Brit you can fit in straight away by moaning about the weather… 

Found out from Rikky that the hotel next to the laundromat is where the Beatles first stayed when they lived here for a time in the early 60’s.It’s the Hotel Pacific…I love little details like that about places.

The street next to the hotel was having a clear up this morning after yesterday’s party.Didn’t look too bad Infact,the Pfand boys & girls had already been round taking away any empty bottles for “Pfand(deposit) “which is basically half the battle,everyone wins,the street gets cleared & there’s 25cents back on each bottle…that’s why you see people going through bins everywhere in Germany,they’re after the bottles to get some money back…some people will deliberately leave their empty bottles at the sides of the bin to save an undignified delve into the wastebin itself…once saw a lad outside the Union Berlin ground with a big shopping trolly full of empty bottles,maybe 150.Fair play to him…

One good thing about returning to cities I like on these trips is I slowly find out the areas of that particular city I like to stay in or if that’s not possible then at least the parts I want to spend most quality time( ie drinking time) all of this is trial an error but in Paris it’s gonna be Ménilmontant,in Berlin it’s Kreuztburg and here it’s gonna be the area of St Pauli I’m currently in…they all suit me down to the ground.Vibrant,diverse neighbourhoods with a distinct left leaning politically…

I decided to do the sensible old man thing and went for an afternoon nap for about three hours.It’s now 7-15pm and I’m back in the cafe bar where I watched the semi final…

Ho hum.Can’t really complain about the result.Spain were by far the better team and I was the only one who made a noise when we scored…said my goodbyes to the fellas who ran the bar,they were Iranians helping to destroy Europe by serving great food & drink.Walking back to the hotel at 11pm and saw a bloke cleaning his teeth in the street so I hope his date went well…on to Berlin tomorrow…goodnight.

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#44 Hamburg…

Turns out the fella in the laundry using a lot of the washers was the kitman for the local Basketball team Hamburg Towers and he used a separate washer & dryer for every team member‘s kit.I had forgotten that Germany are actually Basketball world champions…

Having a coffee outside Feldstrasse U-Bahn where I’m meeting Rikky later.There are a few people up on the bunker so it looks hopeful we can go up which would be cool.Ever since knowing of these towers/ bunker’s existence I’ve hoped to have a gander at the inside & up top…it looks like they‘ve built flats into it and maybe a roof garden.We will see…there’s also a flea market going on in the street next to my hotel so that’s probably on the agenda too…

A very good day with Wolves/Cov/Hamburg Rikky.Lovely to see her again.We didn’t climb the Feldstrasse bunker in the end as the queue was too big,apparently it only reopened last week and the whole world and his Frau want to visit.I might be a Brit but I’m not queuing to give myself a cardiac arrest… 

So lunch and a drink followed by a stroll & drink at a street market happening next to the hotel,all very worthy to help the local community who came out in force I’m happy to say…might pop back there later although a dirty great big storm cloud that’s just appeared might put a break on that.

Tomorrow is today again now.Didn’t bother going back to the street party despite it being in full swing when i got back.The huge storm didn’t seem to deter anyone.I was just knackered to be honest.Again it was a case of the body reminding the head it’s not 25 anymore…

Need to pace myself today as of course it’s Euro finals later on (9pm local time) was gonna pop down the Fisch Markt but been there before and it is basically like any other market.ie shouty blokes trying to flog you stuff only this time in German…

My last day in Hamburg.No doubt I will be back and most probably in the same area too.It is pretty cool,probably as cool as anywhere in Berlin which obviously prides itself on that tag…

Sorry but today’s blog is pretty crappy…found it quite difficult to come up with anything interesting to write about.At least you won’t have to take long to read it…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#43 Hamburg…

Currently sitting in the courtyard of what might well be my favourite building Hamburg’s Chilehaus.A huge brick built edifice dating from the mid 1920’s and thus far superior to anything the Nazis erected (stick that in your pipe hole Albert Speer) If you’re ever in Hamburg have a butchers…apparently it’s part of the “Brick Expressionism” movement which is a thing I didn’t know existed until about a minute ago.Well my expert opinion is that there’s certainly a lot of bricks and it’s very expressive…

Located the local laundry so that’s my first job in the morning then off to meet the belle of Molineux Alley Rikky somewhere.No plans yet but sure we’ll sort something out later on…

Went for a coffee this morning by where i’m staying and blow me sideways it’s card payment only! Anyone that knows Germany is well aware how cash dependent the country is so this was a big surprise.Luckily I now carry my card with me as a matter of course as I’ve been caught out a few times back in the UK but it still a shock especially in somewhere like St Pauli too…

When I said earlier the Chilehaus is possibly my favourite building that may be true until I meet up with Rikky and we’re going to see if we can get to the top of the Feldstrasse Bunker next to St Pauli Stadion and if that’s the case there’s no doubt it will succeed the Chilehaus and I will owe Albert Speer an apology ( doubt if he designed it,probably another nazi) However it would be pretty cool.It’s an awesome looking building from the outside as it is…

As a hook in to yesterday‘s blog there‘s also something they do in Germany,well in the big cities anyway,is shops that we would class as off licences often have benches & tables outside and you can buy your bevvy,open it & drink it like You’re outside a bar.Again very civilised and probably a Turkish thing.Think Hackney may have one or two similar shops but there’s also a sizeable Turkish community there too…

Happy to say my favourite bar in Hamburg is still open,the St Pauli Eck.A scummy dive bar just down from Reeperbahn.It’s dirty,smoky,dark,very basic and I love it…full of real people who once they know you’re not under cover plod accept you with open arms…great to also see the same landlady too.

So tomorrow is now today and I’m sitting in the laundromat.Luckily it’s a huge one because just before i came in a local sports coach started washing sports gear and took about ten machines.In most other places I have been to that would have been the lot…

Strange how something is sometimes close by but you don’t notice it until to take a different path… I am actually talking literally here and not going into any deep mind bending metaphorical sphere…the Feldstrasse Bunker which myself & Rikky are hoping to visit later turns out to be just up the road from the hotel but I had never noticed as i only walked a certain way and it was obscured by trees in the park.It’s a hard building to miss too! 

Also strange how(or why) I have kept hold of one sock despite knowing I lost it’s partner in Innsbruck many weeks ago.Am I hoping by some miracle it will find a way to reunite? Like some heroic Disney dog?  

On that note…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#42 Hamburg…

So after all of yesterday’s shenanigans I got myself sorted in the hotel then went out to find somewhere to watch the football.Loads of bars on the way but few,if any,appeared to have a TV.The bars in this area are more small rooms with benches outside…eventually sat down at one that was pretty empty cos’ I just needed a bevvy.By this time it was about 8-20 local time ( kick off 9-00) and I’d resigned myself to missing the match but as the owner collected glasses I asked if he knew anywhere the game would be on.He gave me a “ huh?” Look as I had actually been sitting under the damn telly this whole time…in my defence the sound was off,it was a relatively small screen,nobody else was taking any notice of it and I was completely frazzled from the travelling…M’Lord.

Great win though! Hardly anyone there watching and those that were rooted for The Dutch but hey ho…it absolutely poured down halfway through too but this is Hamburg so the weather is basically British.Looks like I’ll be watching the final there too then the next day I’m off to Berlin,where the final will be played.Not my best planning…

Got stopped by a young lady holding a news microphone with a cameraman at her side earlier.When  I said my German wasn’t good enough she said it was for German telly so no good to her( her use of “telly” and her accent made me think she was English herself) before I could ask what it was about they pounced on someone else…could of been my big moment.

Later on having a coffee an elderly couple sat next to me and when i got my phone out the fella said “Are you English?” I hadn’t spoken but it turns out he saw the Wolves badge when I opened my phone.He was from Leeds and his missus was from Chile.They both arrived in Hamburg separately 50 years ago,he was a musician and she escaped the military government on a boat from Santiago to Hamburg ( now that’s a journey!) Interesting couple and we had a good natter…

My cheap useless round sunglasses have finally given up the ghost and snapped in two.They were about a fiver from a Tottenham Court Road souvenir tat shop about 15 years ago and never actually kept out the sun but i liked how they looked…

I’m staying in St Pauli.Many people have heard of the area even those that have never been to Hamburg,mostly this is because of either the left wing football club St Pauli or the infamous Reeperbahn,the mile long strip of sex clubs & dodgy bars.Infact the football ground is at one end of Reeperbahn…but obviously there’s more to it than that.It’s an area with a high degree of what can be classed as alternative lifestyle which appeals to my sensibility.The area passes the Hackney test with flying colours…St Pauli also borders Altona which is also a little bit alternative in parts.

It’s turning into one of those chatty days.Just had a very pleasant hour long convo with a fella from Leipzig but now resident here.That happens sometimes,you’ll have a couple of quiet days then suddenly it’s chatty man all day.Sebastian( the fella) did me a favour as I was crashing hard after two long days travelling,boozing and footballing his company has woken me up…

Back in the football bar from last night.Looks like it might be my local.Again it’s not a “bar” as we would know it in Britain,just a small room selling beer & food with minimal seats inside(maybe for ten people) but enough benches outside on the street for maybe fifty people.Not an uncommon set up in this part of Hamburg,also seen similar in trendy areas of Bremen & Berlin.Possibly an import from Turkish immigrants that has caught on and in good weather is a perfect set up…

Anyway the one big question that always hogs these blogs is laundry.There are two within equal walking distance of about five minutes so that’s not a problem but do i need it yet? Will have to check my bag when I get back.T-shirts are ok I think,socks is not a worry cos’ if I run out I just won’t wear any.But the big one is underwear.Not sure I have more than one clean pair left and even as a slovenly bloke I can’t stretch that until Berlin next week…testing times.

On that note…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#41 Hamburg…

My train to Mannheim from Strasbourg is delayed by an hour,or “Retard 1hr-00“ as the the French put it.My connection from Mannheim to Hamburg is now on course to being lost as I had an hour wait at Mannheim…there is one an hour later so hopefully I can get that one…they might make up the time but my experience says they won’t.Already having flashbacks to my 18 hour Sunday…oh well.They finally posted the platform up but I couldn’t find my carriage so asked a guard and showed him my reservation ticket “Non non non” so my mind was racing.Turns out I nearly got on the train to Rennes and mine is next on the same platform.If in doubt always ask…and of course phew…on the train,on a train anyway.Seats where all fucked but managed to blag one which wasn’t mine.Hopefully this isn’t a sign of things to come.Not got a reserved seat for Hamburg as it was optional and I’ve paid enough out already.Turns out I didn’t really need this one but didn’t know that at the time…god I’m rambling,sorry…again this is becoming a bit of a rigmarole…Train to Hamburg from Mannheim cancelled so only alternative is to go to Frankfurt and pick up a Hamburg train from there.For those that were jealous of the good weather I’ve had you’ll be pleased to know it’s pissing down…

I feel as though I should start this again really cos’ like my train journey it’s all got a bit messy…first train an hour late,second train cancelled,third train 35 mins late.Finally at Frankfurt hoped to get the 13-58( the time now) announced that was running 50 minutes late but as i loudly sighed but silently cursed a Hamburg train came in the next platform that is running just over an hour late.So I jumped on and now I’m pulling out of the station…I don’t normally diss German trains but fuck me they’ve gone down the pan these last five years…hopefully I won’t be broadcasting any more shit train news…but they are nice and comfortable!

About an hour outside Hamburg,over two hours late,ticket gets checked and the cheeky bastard asks to see my passport…just bought a weekly Hamburg transport ticket on my phone and I’m probably still about 50 miles away from the place on a fast moving train.Technology is great except ordering via QR codes in a restaurant…€29 Decent price for all zones etc.

Had a good time last night in Exil’s bar.Got chatting to a few people,French,German,South Korean.It was a lovely hotchbotch of people and a stirring rendition of the French national anthem made me want to storm the Bastille and chop the heads off the aristocracy.Or at least off the owners of Le Bastille bar that charge €11-50 for a Kronenburg…also had a few jäger shots with the very bouncy barmaid who remembered me from the other night…

Getting quite used to seeing heavily armed military strolling around French railway stations very slowly and very menacingly.Usually in groups of six,sometimes as a pack all together or in twos or occasionally walking single file about twenty feet apart…I always have a bit of a worry Incase they beard profile and go postal on me…

Some might bridle at this but as I have a cough and few sniffles and I’m on a long train journey I have decided to wear one of the cloth masks I bought with me( not the Wolves one I have,that must be in bottom of the bag) Used to seeing it from the South East Asians pre pandemic round where I live as a common courtesy to other passengers so I decided to follow suit and fuck anyone who thinks I’m a stupid soft fucker for doing so…

Finally in the hotel.Caught the U-Bahn but decided to get a taxi from Schlump(it’s a place honest) but waited ten minutes and none came so walked.It’s actually not that far really but with bags and the heat(sorry) plus having to keep stopping to look at Google maps it seems ages.Room looks good.Right by the front door which is handy to fall into with a sexy bathroom.It’s one of those where I doubt I’m going to meet any staff.Fully paid up and keypad access to the hotel…

Anyway gonna see if I can find a bar to watch the game…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#40 Strasbourg…Hamburg

Last day in Strasbourg.A lovely city made better by glorious weather,apart from my first day which is probably where I got this cold…our receptionist is a nice bright eyed woman but I do wish she wouldn’t wish me “ have a nice day” even from somebody as naturally upbeat as her it sounds forced.This sort of stuff doesn’t sit well coming from the French or Germans.It sounds as though it’s through gritted teeth…anyway that’s my beef for today…

Had one of those showers this morning where you never want it to end…anyone else ever had that? You think “ I could do this all day” might be a trauma for the chambermaid mind and nobody deserves that.She certainly wouldn’t be wishing me a nice day…

So back to Germany tomorrow.When I organised this trip I thought England would be out of the comp by now to be honest but I get into Hamburg tomorrow just a few hours before they kick off a relatively short distance away in Dortmund.Even though I am staying in St Pauli I will steer clear of Reeperbahn tomorrow as I suspect it will be full of pissed up England fans and after an eight hour journey it’s not something I’d relish…then I go to Berlin the day after the final so I’m arriving when loads of fans will be leaving…

So then Strasbourg? Well it’s got a population about the same as Wolverhampton (about 275,000) but get‘s a lot more tourists.No surprise really as in parts it’s very beautiful and as it’s close to the German border it looks old world German in some areas.It’s also home to the European Parliament and as a consequence has a lot of people from all over Europe working there so they’re used to foreign visitors.If you‘ve never been it’s worth coming.Also a very fast train from Paris if you’re in a hurry…like most European cities the pavement outdoor eating & drinking is thriving,especially down by the river & canal ( they’re kind of interchangeable)

One thing that’s helped me is that my rudimentary German is slightly better than my rudimentary French so being a border town with many locals understanding German I have got by a bit better than I would in somewhere like Lyon…every little helps etc

In the same bar as yesterday with a large undercover seating area outside.There are a few cafe bars around here and this one doesn’t do food so they’ve realised if they allow local office workers to bring their own food they’ll do far more business than if they get arsey about it as it’s a nice calm atmosphere plus a lot cheaper than most other places.Winner all round…

Having thought about any future trips in & around France I think from now on it’s always best if I start in Paris directly from Eurostar.That way any subsequent trips I won’t get caught up in the mayhem like I was last week.They will always demand reservation seat tickets before being able to board so that way I can sort it all out as I go rather than try it on a wing and a prayer,which didn’t really work out too well as my 18 hour journey last week testified…

Really letting the Brit side down here.Been in the bar two hours and had two coffees and now on an iced Orangina(god it’s beautiful on a blisteringly hot day) at this rate I will have my passport revoked when I try to get back into Blighty…shameful.Should be four pints in by now threatening the shrubbery surrounding the bar…

Update on the bar; they do food but still allow many to bring their own in,which I think is a very chilled attitude and more power to their elbow for that…

Had a perfectly valid question from a mate on facebook ( hi Phil) who does a fair bit of travelling around himself in Europe for concerts etc,he asked apart from visiting bars & restaurants in these places what do I do? The truth is that is what I enjoy doing,I may visit the odd historical site or museum in a city but mostly I like just catching the vibe of wherever i am.Many might think that’s a waste but each to their own.Generally i‘m enjoying being relaxed…also when in the bars etc I’m not knocking it back like a stag party in Benidorm.I‘m taking my time enjoying the crack and over this trip & the previous one met some very interesting people…so in conclusion I’m very happy doing nothing,nothing suits me down to the ground…however in saying that I might be sinking a few a bit quicker tonight watching the football!

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#39 Strasbourg…

VIVE LA FRANCE! 

Despite many,including me, having deep reservations about the French elections they came through and gave Le Pen and her bunch of fascists a bloody nose,relegating them to third…went down to reception and asked the young girl there about it and she had a big beam on her face bless her…

Now on to the mundane everyday matters…went for a curry last night but it didn’t quite turn out as I expected.Popped into the place I had seen online and it was empty (6-45pm Sunday so no surprise) no reservations but that was fine.Asked for a menu and the fella pops a QR code thing in front of me and  I explained  I had never used one for ordering in a restaurant and that I’d need help.He gave me the most perfunctory guide imaginable and walked off and I still had no idea…now I am not a Luddite,I have embraced modern technology but I draw the line at this.As I was the only one there I asked if he could just take my order but no.Not a chance so I walked out and of course he couldn’t care less…

So I went to the Tamil round the corner from the hotel,nice friendly staff,proper menues and good food & beer ( Fischer not to be confused with Kingfisher) Excellent…as I said I use modern technology all the time with banking,train tickets etc and also QR codes on my phone too but sometimes I want the personal touch,especially in a shop or restaurant.I know I’m a bit of a dinosaur on this but I don’t care…

Popped to Strasbourg station to see if I can change my train ticket to Hamburg on Wednesday without much hope but it was fine.So instead of a 7-22am train with about four stops I’m on the 9-00am train with only one stop so that’s cool.Once again I’m staying in St Pauli and I’ll also get to meet up with Wolves/Cov Rikky and possibly her mate too.Looking forward to it…

Had my Oyster(not oyster) checked on the tram.It’s always a bit of tricky situation cos’ no matter how much you think you’ve sussed it all out there’s always a chance you’ve messed up big time.Good job I had remembered to validate it earlier but that’s only because I saw a fella do it and a lightbulb went off in my head…the worst thing was it was my stop,got the tap on the shoulder as I was leaving and of course fumbled around like a cliched confused Englishman abroad holding everyone up…luckily it was fine,apart from a few muttered French swear words from the cheap seats…

A French bloke in the bar just asked if I was “From the Island?” 

Got a bit of a headache.It’s not the booze so think it might be a cold,a wee bit bunged up too.In the last few years I think I may have developed a bit of hay fever also, just hope it’s not a new strain of Covid.I know it’s been reported in the UK not sure it’s reached mainline Europe yet…also have a slight temperature,Just my forehead is warm to the touch.There’s a possibility I’m just run down that’s all.May have an early night,don’t really want to as I’m in a great city and the weather is fantastic but hey ho,what can you do.Not twenty five anymore and these things aren’t as easy to shake off…let’s see what tomorrow brings…

In a while crocodile…

Ok not sure what happened but my headache suddenly disappeared! Not taken any paracetamol as I don’t want to jump through hoops in the pharmacy.Unlike in the UK you can’t just pick up a box of 16 for 20p in Aldi…so in time honoured fashion “fuck it,order another drink” I do,after all have a reputation of being a Brit to uphold…

60 Days in Europe…#38 Strasbourg…

Early Sunday morning,it’s sunny after yesterday’s deluge and Strasbourg is waking up to the sound of church bells doing what church bells do…

Sitting in the sun enjoying my coffee.I could have had it in the hotel but I like a smoke with the exotic brown liquid…whichever country I’m in I’m never sure of the protocol concerning cafes or bars.Do I order inside and wait? Do I order inside then grab a seat or just plonk my arse outside and wait to be served.This time I did the latter and even though it took five minutes to be approached I was strong,I was resolute,I was a pillar of strength in the face of overwhelming odds and I got my coffee with the little sweet biscuit thing on the side…in Britain the choice is easy,you order at the counter.If you just sit down after a while you’ll get “ are you gonna order something pal? Cos’ if not you can fuck off” you know where you stand…

Now paying for what you’ve ordered.Silly I know but many places insist on it…in Germany it’s normally either a tab the bartender keeps or the famed beermat mark up and you settle up at the end of the day( or if it’s a long session when that particular person ends their shift and you start again) In Italy you normally have what you have and settle up inside and usually in France they give you the bill on a round black service tray.This is not,and I can’t stress this enough,an ersatz ashtray.You will not be a popular customer if you use it as such…the trick to avoiding any or all miscommunications in ordering & paying is never to spend any money.Simple…

Big election day in France today.They’re on the verge of voting in Le Pen,a nasty piece of work.Not quite sure how things work over here.They had a first vote a week ago and the 2nd is today.A couple of people I have spoken to about it both here & in Paris are not optimistic of any other outcome than Le Pen…have not seen any polling stations or signs for them,do the French all vote by post or online or is it just that I’ve not been in the right areas?

Turns out the France semi final is on my last day in the country and the next day I have an eight hour trip to Hamburg and England play the Dutch in Dortmund a few hours after I get in.No doubt i will watch the French game in the same bar I was in last night and find a bar in Hamburg the next day( many Germans will be supporting England I guess as they really don’t like the Dutch) either way things could get messy for a few days in my little world…

Talking of curry.I wasn’t but it was on my mind yesterday.There’s one round the corner from the hotel which opens at 6-30pm and as there’s no football to distract me tonight it’s looking good.On my last visit here I had one at a place called Tamil and it was the best curry i had on that trip.The bar was pretty low however as if I remember many of them were pretty terrible affairs…maybe that’s the reason I’ve not had one this time.Maybe Strasbourg is Europe’s Brick Lane…

Hold that result! Now the proud owner of a Strasbourg transport card (definitely not oyster) didn’t know I was buying one but the machine spat it out and it’s rechargeable.Three day pass for #10-40.Reasonable price…

Curry time but at Tamil because…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#37 Strasbourg…

There was a slightly iffy moment when getting on the metro at Ménilmontant to get to Gare d’Est.The train did that thing where it sat there for five minutes with various announcements and of course me not having a scooby what was happening.Plenty of sighs from the locals,a few getting off but the majority staying.I figured possession is nine tenths of the law and stayed put having had this plenty of times on the tube…sure enough the lights flickered a couple of times,the doors slammed shut & open three times and we were off.Things like this on public transport is why I always give myself plenty of time…I don’t know,first full day of a Labour government and the metro trains are defective…

Anyway had my usual two coffees at the friendly cafe/hotel.Turns out all those dodgy blokes on mobiles in ill fitting suits are taxi drivers! Haha who knew? Not me obviously…the boss asked where I was going and when I said Strasbourg one fella said “Petite Allemagne”So clearly the Parisians don’t hold it in great regard.I’d best steer clear of such topics whilst there…

Six days in Paris is probably just about enough.I know it gets a lot of stick from people,as does France itself but I love them both and I will be back and will definitely be staying in the District 20 area of Ménilmontant.Besides i still have about six tickets left on my Paris oyster(not oyster) card and I don’t want to waste those.It’s called a Navigo card by the way…looking at the Strasbourg app it appears they have a similar thing going so I might get one.Whereas some have a collection of credit cards I will have a collection of transport cards all with about €1-39 on them…

Safely on the train,a nice double decker and I presume a pretty nifty one at that,it’s about 500km ( 310 miles) and takes 1 hour 46 mins so I expect us to be going full blast for a fair bit of that,think it’s straight through too…at Gare du L’est they also give you plenty of time to get on the train and sort yourself out,about 20/25 minutes.Perfect for someone like me who hates being rushed…

My last time in Strasbourg I found the hotel no problem but it was sunny & lovely.This time it’s pissing down and I had to find the hotel via several drying out stops in bars on the way.Eventually got there looking like a drowned rat and the young receptionist looked at me like I was,well,a drowned rat…all good though.It’s a wonderful hotel.Think it’s originally a 14th century building in Petite France.Ye olde worlde part of the city.My weather app assures me after today things will become summery again.Not doing this for the weather but it helps when it’s good…

The transport app won’t recognise my email (I think this may have happened last year) so it’s gonna be a case of going old school and buying an actual daily ticket.There’s tram stops at the top of the street with ticket machines so nice and easy.Think I’ll be staying local tonight anyway.S’pose I’d better check out the football situation for later and I also have a hankering for a curry at some point too…

Anyway the journey was great.Over 300 miles in about 1 hour 40 mins.Incredible…this made up for the shitty day I had a week ago without doubt.Actually think we might of pulled in a bit early too…

The curry never happened but i ended up in a bar watching the games with an American brother & sister and a woman who I later found out was French Algerian but supported England.Apparently she lived for ten years in Bristol and the English left a bit of an impression on her…

In a while crocodile…

60 Days in Europe…#36 Paris…Strasbourg

Last full day in Paris.Been excellent.Got an early(ish) train tomorrow to Strasbourg which has put me in a bit of a quandary.France play Portugal tonight at 9pm local time.Last game was a monday and the bar I use was full and it was a 6pm kick off.However it’s late Friday evening and I imagine it will be packed as everyone will also be primed for the weekend,and they’ll all be celebrating Jacob Rees Mogg losing his seat too of course…I could struggle to get in.We will see…

So Strasbourg tomorrow? The train is just under two hours with no change so I think it’ll be a nice passage.Been there before,indeed I am staying in the same hotel as last time so have a good idea where it is and also still have the transport app on my phone and will reset it up once there…Strasbourg is still a bustling big city but will feel pretty sedate after a week in Paris…

The Paris Metro is obviously a lot like The London Tube but with marked differences.For one you do a lot more walking and step climbing,so much so your Apple device might think a dog has stolen it…yes it’s easy to get lost but I still get lost on the Tube occasionally and I’ve been using it nearly 40 years.Today I was at a station and went to find another line and ended up walking into Gare du Nord,which was not my intention at all but handy as I needed the toilet…most of the trains are pretty modern but there’s one line(10 I think) with old fashioned trains you need to pull a lever to open the doors and gloriously they open as the train is slowing down! I never did quite master the best positions for seat grabbing.Those more used to the ways of the metro knew where to stand and when to strike hard…

Thought I’d check out a bar I ended up in on my first day in Paris alone last year.It’s a cool little place and they made me feel very welcome.I knew it was opposite a dog grooming shop(it’s Paris after all) so found it easily via Google maps.It’s called Le Royal Bar and it’s close to that big tower thing…the place is still cool & friendly i’m glad to say…

My Interrail stats readout has gone a bit nuts I think.It’s showing that I have already done over 10,500 km which I don’t think I have.I think that mental Sunday going through France has sent it over the top.The French bit of the map looks like a two year old has been let loose with the crayons and gone doolally…once I’m done I’ll post it on social media…

Nearly done with the course of anti histamine tablets and everything seems fine thankfully.No more bites & no more itching.I’m not actually sure if I was supposed to take them as a course or just if and when I needed to take one.Ah well too late now,take last one tomorrow morning.Maybe I’ll turn into Jeff Goldblumb in The Fly…

I was expecting to see far more PSG shirts being worn around the place than I have.Probably only seen five being in a week.You see more Wolves tops at a funeral in the Black Country…oddly enough I have seen more English football tops,the usual suspects of course.Don’t know if they were locals or tourists.Did see one Wolves top but that was just my reflection as I walked past a shop…

Problem solved with the football.The only bar I know round here that’s showing the game(really can’t be arsed hunting round for another) is very small & already packed to the rafters so I’m over the road drinking Portuguese lager instead.Figured it was a forlorn hope.Would be conflicted anyway about the game what with Wolves Portuguese connections and wouldn’t want to cause an international incident in any way so discretion is the better part of valour and all that…

In a while crocodile…

So the game is on in the bar I’m in after all.I was very inattentive earlier…This is what being a smoker and getting table service does for you,fail to notice the bleeding obvious until that first toilet trip then it’s game over…

60 Days in Europe…#35 Paris…

Turns out the coffee shop that I thought was dodgy for all the comings & goings is also a hotel.The front is just a normal cafe and the rest of the building is hidden behind.So mystery solved.Nothing exciting I’m afraid…

Ticket sorted for Strasbourg on Saturday morning.A wonderfully grumpy young lady but she got the job done so I’m happy…but still not happy with having to shell out another €20.I have never bought a train ticket in France as I’ve always been on Interrail so have no idea of the prices but if every inter city seat requires an additional €20 they are raking it in like nobody’s business.What’s the average price in the UK? A couple of quid maybe? Man alive…nice quick trains though…

Currently at the base of Montmare having a coffee(naturally) will probably have another before braving the 200 steep steps.Nah only kidding,gonna find the Funicular and go to the top as God,and my legs,intended…

Montmare is a cool spot,unfortunately because I dicked around a bit this morning I got there in the middle of the tourist rush,the trick is to try to get to these places before the hotel breakfast ends and thus minimising the crowds…apart from the views of course there’s a thriving “ village” at the top.Plenty of cafe bars and artists with their equipment set up.It’s all very pleasant but packed & expensive…at the top of the Funicular there’s a cafe with a sign for toilets chalked on their board charging €2,I had to go( as many were) so sucked it up & paid but decided to have a coffee too and consequently got my €2 back as I was now a paying customer! Hardly anyone in there and I reckon for every customer they’re getting ten only using  the toilets! Fair play to them…

Many of the tourists seem to be French.I suppose Paris is much like London in that many that live outside constantly rag on about hating the place but love to visit…anyway because I didn’t walk up the mountain of steps I will walk down as I’m feeling fit and of course it’s a damn site easier…

Just worked out how to put money on my Paris oyster(not oyster) card via the app on my phone.It’s not easy and it did take a while messing around trying to scan the card etc.Meanwhile it also turned on my Spotify and it wasn’t even to what I was playing last! Very bizarre…now that’s sorted gonna finish my drink here and head down to the Latin Quarter for a mooch about…

I‘m not a driver,never had any interest and being in Paris has in no way whatsoever made me regret that decision.It’s mayhem! They talk about the Italians but they drive like Miss Daisy‘s in the back seat compared to this lot and man do they love their horns…I would never cycle here that’s for sure.Cycled in London,which I’m used to so no problem and Berlin which I was a bit nervous about but the Germans respect the cyclist even in Berlin, but Paris? Not a hope in hell…

Think I got to The Latin Quarter but maybe took a wrong turn and ended up by Notre Dame instead.Maybe that is in the same area but I was expecting small independent bookshops & bars with chin stroking blokes dissecting 19th century philosophy…I really should research more instead doing most things on instinct.Maybe I will check it out again tomorrow as I don’t want to waste a good beard stroking opportunity…

Surprised by Notre Dame.Thought it would be a lot further along in the restoration after the fire but it looks a good few years off,certainly nowhere near Olympic standard…suppose you can’t rush these things and if you do it could ruin it forever…

In a while crocodile…

Found The Latin Quarter when looking for the metro.Pretty much as I pictured it…

60 Days in Europe…#34 Paris…

Laundry all done,and by all i mean all,My hold-all didn’t hold anything else clean…after the fella helped me he did his thing and left,I grabbed a quick coffee,went back(it was two doors away) and was alone then a fella walked in,no washing,closed the doors and proceeded to walk around the place like you see deranged tigers do at the zoo.I was getting a bit concerned to be honest.Anyway eventually he stopped in front of me and as I was as far away from the door as possible flight wasn’t an option…he said something,I indicated I didn’t speak French “ ah Anglais?” And we became firm friends but I have never shoved my clothes into my bag quicker,they can be sorted out in the hotel behind a securely locked door…these places do attract potentially dangerous types and you can never be sure when someone could turn…

Went to Pere Lachaise the famous cemetery that rivals London’s Highgate cemetery and it’s mind bogglingly big and impressive.Most people enjoy a mooch around a graveyard be it small & unkempt or grandiose and coiffured like this one(in most parts) I started off with the great plan of checking out all the famous dead people’s graves but quickly got lost both literally and figuratively,even though I had a map I was happy just ambling around…didn’t want the guided tour as I like to take my own time.I only got to see two famous gravestones but in reality I was’nt really looking.The first was Oscar Wilde and to be honest that one is a bit sad.It’s a bit crappy anyway but that just my opinion but it’s surrounded by glass with a note asking for people to show respect and not deface it.There’s a few dead flowers dotted around…

Of course I sought out Jim Morrison’s grave especially as it’s the anniversary of his death 53 years ago.There’s a barrier surrounding it but it looks well kept,there were also a few people around including a Californian couple telling tales from the old days.Can’t vouch for the legitimacy but hey ho.Currently in a bar surrounded by Doors fans of different nationalities who clearly meet up here on this date annually…anyway Pere Lachaise is a great place,well worth a visit…Highgate Cemetery £14 Pere Lachaise Free.Just saying…

Popped back to the original cafe I went to when first getting to the area and it’s cool,the owner has been great but there’s a lot of dodgy looking geezers in ill fitting suits on mobile phones coming & going constantly.Now I’m not saying anything iffy is afoot but if anyone gets a strange phone call at 3am it’s probably cos’ I have been caught up in a huge police raid…

Have seen a few people walking around sporting natty berets.Maybe it’s like a bit of French revisionist fashion like we had in the UK with the whole Peaky Blinders thing and flat caps…no strings of onions round the neck yet though…

There are certain things you notice about some places that stand out.They do to me anyway.Little things like in this area in the space of a couple of miles I have seen about ten Lyca mobile phone shops.I just find that kind of thing odd.How much demand can there be? Or am i being a bit naive or thick( or both)  and missing something obvious? 

The plan tomorrow is to sort out my Strasbourg ticket.Think I will just try to get another train and will go to Gare du Nord instead of Gare du l’Est,where I have been twice with varying degrees of success.Also I want to get to the top of Montmare.Don’t know why I didn’t do it last time I was here especially as I was staying close by…not sure I will be fit enough to climb up though,it’s a long old hike up them steps so think I’ll have to pay for the funicular up the top.Apparently top class views of Paris…

In a while crocodile…